[DeTomaso] FW: 160 degree thermostat vs 180 degree thermostat
The Hougans
hougan at verizon.net
Tue May 19 00:32:47 EDT 2015
After reading the original post in that reference, I believe the chart/graph provided is for AIR cooled AIRCRAFT engines (Continental motors makes aircraft engines) which normally run cylinder temps in the 300-400 degree F range. I think the point of that graph was to show owners why pre-heating an aircraft engine is a really, really good idea in colder weather (i.e. below 40 degrees). Note the vertical scale: even the LOWEST wear is 0.001" which is enormous for such a short time; 0.002" is pretty much the cylinder wear limit for auto engines.
IMHO, that graph is pretty much useless for drawing any conclusions in regards to thermostat temperature as related to wear in water cooled auto engines.
Flame away!
-----Original Message-----
From: DeTomaso [mailto:detomaso-bounces at poca.com]On Behalf Of B Hower via DeTomaso
Sent: Monday, May 18, 2015 6:19 PM
To: Rob Pulsifer; detomaso at poca.com
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] 160 degree thermostat vs 180 degree thermostat
I did some surfing and found this:
http://www.fordification.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=46691 Bud #3400 ( Drive it like there is no tomorrow -- for there may not be ! )
From: Rob Pulsifer via DeTomaso <detomaso at poca.com>
To: detomaso at poca.com
Sent: Monday, May 18, 2015 7:27 PM
Subject: [DeTomaso] 160 degree thermostat vs 180 degree thermostat
I am currently running a 160 degree thermostat, the engine will hold that temperature while on the hwy. I drove over 50 miles, when I stopped I found that I had left the cap of the swirl tank. The engine didn't over heat, only loss 2 cups of water. The car came stock with a 160 degree thermostat. I now understand that the 180 degree thermostat is better. Outside of the temperature will be more constant, I really don't see the advantage of a 180 degree thermostat.
Robert Pulsifer
--------------------------------------------
On Sun, 5/17/15, detomaso-request at poca.com <detomaso-request at poca.com> wrote:
Subject: DeTomaso Digest, Vol 131, Issue 20
To: detomaso at poca.com
Date: Sunday, May 17, 2015, 12:00 PM
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Daily Detomaso List Digest
Today's Topics:
1. Re: Alden Shock Repair (jderyke at aol.com)
2. Re: NPT Hydrogen powered Toyota (Rob
Dumoulin)
3. ZF oil choice (Panteratime)
4. Re: ZF oil choice (Ed Mendez)
5. Re: ZF oil choice (Pantdino)
6. Re: ZF oil choice (Pantdino)
7. Re: ZF oil choice (Ed Mendez)
8. Re: Alden Shock Repair (Ed Mendez)
9. Random fun rally pics (Mike Drew)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Sat, 16 May 2015 15:04:21 -0400
From: jderyke at aol.com
To: julian_kift at hotmail.com,
panteratime at aol.com,
detomaso at poca.com
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Alden Shock Repair
Message-ID: <14d5e1ce35c-58aa-2c158 at webprd-m65.mail.aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
Many Alden shocks leak from the simple o-ring that seals-
sort of- the external damping adjustment near the bottom,
not at the shock rod (which is much more serious). Hall used
to repair them when they sold the things. Who did you buy it
from?
-----Original Message-----
Subject: [DeTomaso] Alden Shock Repair
From:detomaso at poca.com
Folks,Noticed oil leaking from front Alden coil overaluminum
shock. Purchased
3/2005. Although likely only 2000 miles on
carsince then, they leak!!! Anyone know of
a rebuild kit or if rebuilding ashock by yourself is
doable? Alden isin CA, and it would cost
more to shipand pay rebuild charge than buy a new Shock
likely!!!Also any hints in frontshock
removal?Thanks!!!!
_______________________________________________ Detomaso
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-------------- next part --------------
Many Alden shocks leak from the simple
o-ring that seals- sort of- the
external damping adjustment near the
bottom, not at the shock rod
(which is much more serious). Hall used to
repair them when they sold
the things. Who did you buy it from?
-----Original Message-----
Subject: [DeTomaso] Alden Shock Repair
From: [1]detomaso at poca.com
Folks, Noticed oil leaking from front
Alden coil over aluminum shock.
Purchased 3/200 5. Although likely only
2000 miles on car since then,
they leak!!! Anyone know of a rebuild kit
or if rebuilding a shock by
yourself is doable? Alden is in CA, and it
would cost more to ship and
pay rebuild charge than buy a new Shoc k
likely!!! Also any hints in
front shock removal? Thanks!!!!
_______________________________________________
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by POCA Posted emails must not exceed 1.5
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------------------------------
Message: 2
Date: Sat, 16 May 2015 17:11:58 -0400
From: Rob Dumoulin <rob at dumoulins.net>
To: Ken Green <kenn_green at yahoo.com>
Cc: DeTomaso <detomaso at poca.com>
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] NPT Hydrogen powered Toyota
Message-ID:
<CAEr4y_uA3RDp1scuzHPVLq1yZBzGZQ3NBn6WzLUHzH1UNVU+uA at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
It's not a party until somebody gets hurt!
[image: Inline image 1]
Rob DuMoulin
904.476.8744
rob at dumoulins.net
www.kbsi.co
http://www.linkedin.com/pub/rob-dumoulin/0/1b6/58
On Mon, May 11, 2015 at 4:41 PM, Ken Green via DeTomaso
<detomaso at poca.com>
wrote:
> Pretty cool:
> [1]http://www.washingtonpost.com/blogs/the-switch/wp/2015/05/11/we-test
>
-drove-the-toyota-future-car-that-elon-musk-hates/?wpisrc=nl_tech&wpmm=
> 1
> NOT combustion, makes electricity, does
not burn the hydrogen, uses
> hydrogen cell technology:
> [2]http://www.toyota.com/mirai/fcv.html?srchid=sem|google|FCV|Segment_F
>
CV|Hydrogen_Technology|FCV+Copy+Refresh+4.22|Mirai_MLP
> Maybe the end of battery powered cars?
batteries are generally terrible
> for the environment, so this seems a lot
better. Maybe weighs a lot
> less, doesn't need hours to charge.
> Ken
>
> References
>
> 1.
> http://www.washingtonpost.com/blogs/the-switch/wp/2015/05/11/we-test-drove-the-toyota-future-car-that-elon-musk-hates/?wpisrc=nl_tech&wpmm=1
> 2.
> http://www.toyota.com/mirai/fcv.html?srchid=sem|google|FCV|Segment_FCV|Hydrogen_Technology|FCV+Copy+Refresh+4.22|Mirai_MLP
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Detomaso Forum Managed by POCA
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>
> To manage your subscription (change email address,
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> the links above.
>
>
-------------- next part --------------
It's not a party until somebody gets
hurt!
Inline image 1
Rob DuMoulin
904.476.8744
[1]rob at dumoulins.net
[2]www.kbsi.co
[3]http://www.linkedin.com/pub/rob-dumoulin/0/1b6/58
On Mon, May 11, 2015 at 4:41 PM, Ken Green
via DeTomaso
<[4]detomaso at poca.com>
wrote:
A A Pretty cool:
A
A [1][5]http://www.washingtonpost.com/blogs/the-switch/wp/2015/05/11
/we-test
A
A
-drove-the-toyota-future-car-that-elon-musk-hates/?wpisrc=nl_tech&
wpmm=
A A 1
A A NOT combustion, makes
electricity, does not burn the hydrogen,
uses
A A hydrogen cell
technology:
A
A [2][6]http://www.toyota.com/mirai/fcv.html?srchid=sem|google|FCV|S
egment_F
A A
CV|Hydrogen_Technology|FCV+Copy+Refresh+4.22|Mirai_MLP
A A Maybe the end of battery
powered cars? batteries are generally
terrible
A A for the environment, so
this seems a lot better.A Maybe weighs
a lot
A A less, doesn't need hours
to charge.
A A Ken
References
A A 1.
[7]http://www.washingtonpost.com/blogs/the-switch/wp/2015/05/11/we-t
est-drove-the-toyota-future-car-that-elon-musk-hates/?wpisrc=nl_tech
&wpmm=1
A A 2.
[8]http://www.toyota.com/mirai/fcv.html?srchid=sem|google|FCV|Segmen
t_FCV|Hydrogen_Technology|FCV+Copy+Refresh+4.22|Mirai_MLP
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4. mailto:detomaso at poca.com
5. http://www.washingtonpost.com/blogs/the-switch/wp/2015/05/11/we-test
6. http://www.toyota.com/mirai/fcv.html?srchid=sem|google|FCV|Segment_F
7. http://www.washingtonpost.com/blogs/the-switch/wp/2015/05/11/we-test-drove-the-toyota-future-car-that-elon-musk-hates/?wpisrc=nl_tech&wpmm=1
8. http://www.toyota.com/mirai/fcv.html?srchid=sem|google|FCV|Segment_FCV|Hydrogen_Technology|FCV+Copy+Refresh+4.22|Mirai_MLP
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-------------- next part --------------
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------------------------------
Message: 3
Date: Sat, 16 May 2015 22:07:38 -0400
From: Panteratime <panteratime at aol.com>
To: detomaso at poca.com
Subject: [DeTomaso] ZF oil choice
Message-ID: <14d5fa06c6f-6102-2d0f2 at webprd-a102.mail.aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
Folks,
Last time I changed ZF oil I used Mobil 1
75-90. Synthetic. Should I
still use that or better to go with conventional
oil? recommendations? thanks
-------------- next part --------------
Folks,
Last time I changed ZF oil I used Mobil 1
75-90. Synthetic. Should
I still use that or better to go with
conventional oil?
recommendations? thanks
------------------------------
Message: 4
Date: Sat, 16 May 2015 19:42:56 -0700
From: Ed Mendez <edducati at mac.com>
To: Panteratime <panteratime at aol.com>
Cc: "detomaso at poca.com"
<detomaso at poca.com>
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] ZF oil choice
Message-ID: <77E2AF59-616B-4C18-B6AC-286D23786B0A at mac.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
75-90 conventional don't recommend synth in the ZF.
Ed
Sent from my iPhone 6 Plus
> On May 16, 2015, at 19:07, Panteratime via DeTomaso
<detomaso at poca.com>
wrote:
>
> Folks,
>
> Last time I changed ZF oil I used
Mobil 1 75-90. Synthetic.
Should
> I still use that or better to go with
conventional oil?
> recommendations? thanks
> _______________________________________________
>
> Detomaso Forum Managed by POCA
> Posted emails must not exceed 1.5 Megabytes
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>
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unsubscribe, etc.) use the links above.
------------------------------
Message: 5
Date: Sun, 17 May 2015 02:36:17 -0400
From: Pantdino <pantdino at aol.com>
To: panteratime at aol.com,
detomaso at poca.com
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] ZF oil choice
Message-ID: <14d60966092-41df-36f8a at webstg-a04.mail.aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
RedLine 75-90 NS (synthetic)
I get mine on Amazon, usually with free shipping
Here's Les Gray's email from a while ago:
The Red Line oil NSdesignation means that in this particular
oil there is NO
additive added to reduce the clutch chatter in most limited
slip differentials.
Normally this additive is a good thing and almost mandatory
in cars like the
Corvette which has a fairly high degree of limited slip lock
up.
Our cars have a two issues with
these extra slipperyadditives. Number
one is our diff uses a rather low limited slip lock up so
this extra slip
actually decreases what little lock up we have. Number two
is this additivewill
inhibit our synchro rings ability to do its job and in
extreme cases will burn
up the synchro rings and the towers on the gears costing big
bucks.
I've rebuilt ZF's since the late 1970's and
have replaceddozens of synchro
rings & gear sets due to the use of these additives.
As Jack DeRyke says "your mileage may vary" !!!!
Jim Oddie
-----Original Message-----
From: Panteratime via DeTomaso <detomaso at poca.com>
To: detomaso <detomaso at poca.com>
Sent: Sat, May 16, 2015 7:07 pm
Subject: [DeTomaso] ZF oil choice
Folks,
Last time I changed ZF oil I used Mobil 1
75-90. Synthetic.
Should
I still use that or better to go with
conventional oil?
recommendations? thanks
_______________________________________________
Detomaso Forum Managed by
POCA
Posted emails must not exceed 1.5 Megabytes
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list
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To
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etc.) use the links
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-------------- next part --------------
RedLine 75-90 NS (synthetic)
I get mine on Amazon, usually with free
shipping
Here's Les Gray's email from a while ago:
The Red Line oil NS designation means that
in this particular oil there
is NO
additive added to reduce the clutch
chatter in most limited slip
differentials.
Normally this additive is a good thing and
almost mandatory in cars
like the
Corvette which has a fairly high degree of
limited slip lock up.
Our cars have a two issues with
these extra slippery additives.
Number
one is our diff uses a rather low limited
slip lock up so this extra
slip
actually decreases what little lock up we
have. Number two is this
additive will
inhibit our synchro rings ability to do
its job and in extreme cases
will burn
up the synchro rings and the towers on the
gears costing big bucks.
I've rebuilt ZF's since the
late 1970's and have replaced dozens of
synchro
rings & gear sets due to the use of
these additives.
As Jack DeRyke says "your mileage
may vary" !!!!
Jim Oddie
-----Original Message-----
From: Panteratime via DeTomaso <detomaso at poca.com>
To: detomaso <detomaso at poca.com>
Sent: Sat, May 16, 2015 7:07 pm
Subject: [DeTomaso] ZF oil choice
Folks,
Last time I changed ZF oil I used Mobil 1
75-90. Synthetic.
Should
I still use that or better to go with
conventional oil?
recommendations? thanks
_______________________________________________
Detomaso Forum Managed by
POCA
Posted emails must not exceed 1.5 Megabytes
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------------------------------
Message: 6
Date: Sun, 17 May 2015 02:40:57 -0400
From: Pantdino <pantdino at aol.com>
To: edducati at mac.com, panteratime at aol.com
Cc: detomaso at poca.com
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] ZF oil choice
Message-ID: <14d609aa708-41df-36f92 at webstg-a04.mail.aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
"75-90 conventional don't recommend synth in the ZF".
Sorry Ed, but I think that's nonsense.
IF you do use dinosaur oil, it should probably be GL-4 (NOT
GL-4 -GL-5) and not have any limited slip additive.
GL-5 oil has sulfur additives that harm yellow metals like
brass, which trannies / synchro rings have.
Jim
-----Original Message-----
From: Ed Mendez <edducati at mac.com>
To: Panteratime <panteratime at aol.com>
Cc: detomaso <detomaso at poca.com>
Sent: Sat, May 16, 2015 7:43 pm
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] ZF oil choice
75-90 conventional don't recommend synth in the ZF.
Ed
Sent from my
iPhone 6 Plus
> On May 16, 2015, at 19:07, Panteratime via DeTomaso
<detomaso at poca.com>
wrote:
>
> Folks,
>
> Last time I changed ZF oil I
used Mobil 1 75-90. Synthetic.
Should
> I still use that or better to go
with conventional oil?
> recommendations? thanks
>
_______________________________________________
>
> Detomaso Forum Managed by
POCA
> Posted emails must not exceed 1.5 Megabytes
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DeTomaso at poca.com
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To manage your subscription (change email address,
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-------------- next part --------------
"75-90 conventional don't recommend synth
in the ZF".
Sorry Ed, but I think that's nonsense.
IF you do use dinosaur oil, it should
probably be GL-4 (NOT GL-4 -GL-5)
and not have any limited slip
additive. GL-5 oil has sulfur additives
that harm yellow metals like brass, which
trannies / synchro
rings have.
Jim
-----Original Message-----
From: Ed Mendez <edducati at mac.com>
To: Panteratime <panteratime at aol.com>
Cc: detomaso <detomaso at poca.com>
Sent: Sat, May 16, 2015 7:43 pm
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] ZF oil choice
75-90 conventional don't recommend synth in the ZF.
Ed
Sent from my
iPhone 6 Plus
> On May 16, 2015, at 19:07, Panteratime via DeTomaso
<[1]detomaso at poca.com>
wrote:
>
> Folks,
>
> Last time I changed ZF oil I
used Mobil 1 75-90. Synthetic.
Should
> I still use that or better to go
with conventional oil?
> recommendations? thanks
>
_______________________________________________
>
> Detomaso Forum Managed by
POCA
> Posted emails must not exceed 1.5 Megabytes
> DeTomaso mailing list
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------------------------------
Message: 7
Date: Sun, 17 May 2015 00:55:06 -0700
From: Ed Mendez <edducati at mac.com>
To: Pantdino <pantdino at aol.com>
Cc: panteratime at aol.com,
"detomaso at poca.com"
<detomaso at poca.com>
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] ZF oil choice
Message-ID: <72A867F3-5BAD-461A-8647-EA0214946432 at mac.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Castrol non synthetic 80W90 Hypoy Gear Oil is rated API GL-5
LS which has friction modifying additives and supposed to be
recommended by RBT.
Although, I understand it depends whether you have brass or
cast iron synchros. If you have the brass synchos then I
think you have to use the Redline 75/90 NS?
Ed
> On May 16, 2015, at 23:40, Pantdino <pantdino at aol.com>
wrote:
>
> "75-90 conventional don't recommend synth in the ZF".
>
> Sorry Ed, but I think that's nonsense.
>
> IF you do use dinosaur oil, it should probably be GL-4
(NOT GL-4 -GL-5) and not have any limited slip
additive. GL-5 oil has sulfur additives that harm
yellow metals like brass, which trannies / synchro rings
have.
>
>
> Jim
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ed Mendez <edducati at mac.com>
> To: Panteratime <panteratime at aol.com>
> Cc: detomaso <detomaso at poca.com>
> Sent: Sat, May 16, 2015 7:43 pm
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] ZF oil choice
>
> 75-90 conventional don't recommend synth in the ZF.
>
> Ed
>
> Sent from my
> iPhone 6 Plus
>
> > On May 16, 2015, at 19:07, Panteratime via
DeTomaso
> <detomaso at poca.com
<mailto:detomaso at poca.com>>
wrote:
> >
> > Folks,
> >
> > Last time I changed ZF oil I
> used Mobil 1 75-90. Synthetic.
Should
> > I still use that or better to go
> with conventional oil?
> > recommendations? thanks
> >
> _______________________________________________
> >
> > Detomaso Forum Managed by
> POCA
> > Posted emails must not exceed 1.5 Megabytes
> > DeTomaso mailing list
> >
> DeTomaso at poca.com
<mailto:DeTomaso at poca.com>
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<http://poca.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso_poca.com>
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> >
> To manage your subscription (change email address,
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> links above.
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> _______________________________________________
>
> Detomaso
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> list
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>
> To
> manage your subscription (change email address,
unsubscribe, etc.) use the links
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-------------- next part --------------
Castrol non synthetic 80W90 Hypoy Gear Oil
is rated API GL-5 LS which
has friction modifying additives and
supposed to be recommended by RBT.
Although, I understand it depends whether
you have brass or cast
iron synchros. If you have the brass
synchos then I think you have to
use the Redline 75/90 NS?
Ed
On May 16, 2015, at 23:40, Pantdino
<[1]pantdino at aol.com>
wrote:
"75-90 conventional don't recommend synth
in the ZF".
Sorry Ed, but I think that's nonsense.
IF you do use dinosaur oil, it should
probably be GL-4 (NOT GL-4 -GL-5)
and not have any limited slip
additive. GL-5 oil has sulfur additives
that harm yellow metals like brass, which
trannies / synchro
rings have.
Jim
-----Original Message-----
From: Ed Mendez <[2]edducati at mac.com>
To: Panteratime <[3]panteratime at aol.com>
Cc: detomaso <[4]detomaso at poca.com>
Sent: Sat, May 16, 2015 7:43 pm
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] ZF oil choice
75-90 conventional don't recommend synth in the ZF.
Ed
Sent from my
iPhone 6 Plus
> On May 16, 2015, at 19:07, Panteratime via DeTomaso
<[5]detomaso at poca.com>
wrote:
>
> Folks,
>
> Last time I changed ZF oil I
used Mobil 1 75-90. Synthetic.
Should
> I still use that or better to go
with conventional oil?
> recommendations? thanks
>
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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 17 May 2015 02:13:38 -0700
From: Ed Mendez <edducati at mac.com>
To: Julian Kift <julian_kift at hotmail.com>
Cc: Panteratime <panteratime at aol.com>,
"detomaso at poca.com"
<detomaso at poca.com>
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Alden Shock Repair
Message-ID: <CEA0A8CD-E13D-418E-B9DC-A636DDBC9B2D at mac.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Yes, they rebuilt all 4 of my shocks for free, plus replaced
the bent shafts inside of each shocks. The car sat for 20
plus years and was never driven so at some point the shocks
seized up. So when I started driving it, all the shafts bent
because there was no damping action. Drove it for 3000 miles
that way. I thought it handled funny. hahaha
> On May 16, 2015, at 08:29, Julian Kift <julian_kift at hotmail.com>
wrote:
>
> Sounds like a standard Alden shock to
me..... Your best bet is to speak
> with and arrange to ship them back to
Alden, their repair is usually
> free.
> Julian
> Date: Sat, 16 May 2015 11:15:16 -0400
> To: detomaso at poca.com
> Subject: [DeTomaso] Alden Shock
Repair
> From: detomaso at poca.com
>
> Folks,
> Noticed oil leaking from front Alden coil over aluminum
shock. Purchased 3/200
> 5. Although likely only 2000 miles on
car since then, they leak!!! Anyone kn
> ow of a rebuild kit or if rebuilding a shock by
yourself is doable? Alden is
> in CA, and it would cost more to ship and pay rebuild
charge than buy a new Shoc
> k likely!!!
> Also any hints in front shock removal?
> Thanks!!!!
>
>
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------------------------------
Message: 9
Date: Sun, 17 May 2015 08:48:07 -0500
From: Mike Drew <MikeLDrew at aol.com>
To: detomaso at poca.com
Subject: [DeTomaso] Random fun rally pics
Message-ID: <8A2DCCD1-7232-43E0-8175-3B00061A151D at aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Guys,
A couple of pics from the track yesterday. Probably more
than 30 Panteras present, most of which were on the track.
Tom Upton's monster hauler served as the base of
operations:
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Kirby Schrader dropped a tiny bolt from his webers into an
impossible cavity in the engine and spent more than an hour
trying to get it out. He was not having fun here:
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He got it eventually! Cars back on track today but many of
us are going to the Gullo museum instead.
Where are YOUR photos?
Mike
Sent from my iPhone
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End of DeTomaso Digest, Vol 131, Issue 20
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