[DeTomaso] Suspension Angles

[Mike Thomas]

Yes, they are the type with the threaded rod that needs to be adjusted.
Your approach was what I was trying to get to, ‘guess I was a little klunky
getting there.  It’s the math I need the help with.

 

Thanks, Mike

 

From: Julian Kift [mailto:julian_kift at hotmail.com] 
Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2014 7:52 PM
To: mbefthomas at comcast.net; detomaso at poca.com
Subject: RE: [DeTomaso] Suspension Angles

 

Are these adjustable on the car (double sleeve) or the ones you with a
simple rod end you need to remove to adjust?

I think I would tackle it by measuring current camber and working out how
much the upper wheel rim needs to move out to achieve the desired camber,
then mathematically figure that back to the height of the hub a arm mounting
point.

Julian



From: mbefthomas at comcast.net <mailto:mbefthomas at comcast.net> 
To: detomaso at poca.com <mailto:detomaso at poca.com> 
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2014 17:22:16 -0800
Subject: [DeTomaso] Suspension Angles

I’ve picked up a set of DQ’s adjustable upper rear A-arms, and am getting
ready to install them.  When I fitted the car with the new Koni CO’s this
summer, I dropped the car to the height I was looking for, knowing that my
rear camber would be quite a bit off.  What I need to figure out is how much
extension I need to add to the A arm to get to the correct camber with half
a tank in the car.
 
 
 
My lower A-arms are virtually level to the ground, I’ve dropped the car
about ½” from where it was.  I couldn’t lower it any more before as the
alignment shop had to remove all shims from the lower A-am to frame
connection except what was needed for rear toe.
 
 
 
I’m assuming that if I know the angle at which the uppers are with the
lowers level, I could calculate how much to extend the A arm, which is at x
degrees above the horizontal plane, to push the top of the rear tire out Y
inches to achieve approximately the right camber.  Then when I take the
stock A arms off the car, measure center of the buss at the frame to the
center of the shaft that connects to the upright, I’ll know how much to
increase that dimension to get close enough to the desired camber that the
alignment shop can fix the rest with shims at the lower A arm-to-frame
mounting points, including for proper toe.
 
 
 
I’ve seen the diagrams of Dallara’s suspension design, but does someone have
that angle, or some other advice on how to set this up?
 
 
 
Thanks, Mike Thomas
 


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-------------- next part --------------
   Yes, they are the type with the threaded rod that needs to be
   adjusted.  Your approach was what I was trying to get to, `guess I was
   a little klunky getting there.  It's the math I need the help with.


   Thanks, Mike


   From: Julian Kift [mailto:julian_kift at hotmail.com]
   Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2014 7:52 PM
   To: mbefthomas at comcast.net; detomaso at poca.com
   Subject: RE: [DeTomaso] Suspension Angles


   Are these adjustable on the car (double sleeve) or the ones you with a
   simple rod end you need to remove to adjust?
   I think I would tackle it by measuring current camber and working out
   how much the upper wheel rim needs to move out to achieve the desired
   camber, then mathematically figure that back to the height of the hub a
   arm mounting point.
   Julian
   From: [1]mbefthomas at comcast.net
   To: [2]detomaso at poca.com
   Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2014 17:22:16 -0800
   Subject: [DeTomaso] Suspension Angles
I've picked up a set of DQ's adjustable upper rear A-arms, and am getting
ready to install them.  When I fitted the car with the new Koni CO's this
summer, I dropped the car to the height I was looking for, knowing that my
rear camber would be quite a bit off.  What I need to figure out is how much
extension I need to add to the A arm to get to the correct camber with half
a tank in the car.



My lower A-arms are virtually level to the ground, I've dropped the car
about  1/2" from where it was.  I couldn't lower it any more before as the
alignment shop had to remove all shims from the lower A-am to frame
connection except what was needed for rear toe.



I'm assuming that if I know the angle at which the uppers are with the
lowers level, I could calculate how much to extend the A arm, which is at x
degrees above the horizontal plane, to push the top of the rear tire out Y
inches to achieve approximately the right camber.  Then when I take the
stock A arms off the car, measure center of the buss at the frame to the
center of the shaft that connects to the upright, I'll know how much to
increase that dimension to get close enough to the desired camber that the
alignment shop can fix the rest with shims at the lower A arm-to-frame
mounting points, including for proper toe.



I've seen the diagrams of Dallara's suspension design, but does someone have
that angle, or some other advice on how to set this up?



Thanks, Mike Thomas

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References

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