[DeTomaso] : Looking for pictures of rear camber brace ideas
MikeLDrew at aol.com
MikeLDrew at aol.com
Thu May 22 02:02:43 EDT 2014
In a message dated 5/21/14 14 27 13, detomasoregistry at gmail.com writes:
>
> I'm looking at the rear camber brace that connects the shock mounts and
> I'd like to see pictures of setups beyond the standard
> camber brace and aftermarket adjustable camber braces. I'm aware of the
> Hall/Byars style bracing. If you have done something
> different, I'd like to see it!
>
>>>The stock bar is only marginally effective, as it relies solely on bolt
tension to locate it within two slotted holes in the mounting tabs on the
body. Dubious.
The 'bling' replacements that have a turnbuckle are a bit better, but still
transmit all the loads through the bolt/tab interface.
The square tube with turnbuckle is MUCH better, because the tube itself
butts up against the inside of the chassis, and transmits the loads directly,
with the nut/bolt only serving to hold it in position and keep it from flying
out of the car.
But to really be effective, you need more than a simple bar. The
Hall/Byars setup that uses four mounting points instead of just two, is stronger by
many orders of magnitude. The rear of the Pantera can be likened to a
cardboard box that is laid on its side, and open on either end. With the ends
open, the box has next to no strength and can easily be collapsed. But if
you close the ends, suddenly the box has structural integrity.
Similarly, a single bar acts like the top surface of the open box in my
example above. A four-point mounting system gives real rigidity.
It's important that any chassis stiffening setup resist movement in more
than a single plane. The Byars/Hall deal also resists twisting.
Well-intentioned people have formed chassis stiffening devices that have heim joints
at each end, which (almost) totally defeats the purpose, because those are
designed to PROMOTE movement. While the unit will transmit force in a
straight line, it won't resist any bending movement at all.
If you are determined to DIY, you can buy the Hall setup which comes as a
collection of unpainted pieces that need to be welded together, or you can
copy the basic idea. Or just buy the Byars setup and bolt it in. :>)
Mike
-------------- next part --------------
In a message dated 5/21/14 14 27 13, detomasoregistry at gmail.com writes:
I'm looking at the rear camber brace that connects the shock mounts
and I'd like to see pictures of setups beyond the standard
camber brace and aftermarket adjustable camber braces. I'm aware of
the Hall/Byars style bracing. If you have done something
different, I'd like to see it!
>>>The stock bar is only marginally effective, as it relies solely on
bolt tension to locate it within two slotted holes in the mounting tabs
on the body. Dubious.
The 'bling' replacements that have a turnbuckle are a bit better, but
still transmit all the loads through the bolt/tab interface.
The square tube with turnbuckle is MUCH better, because the tube itself
butts up against the inside of the chassis, and transmits the loads
directly, with the nut/bolt only serving to hold it in position and
keep it from flying out of the car.
But to really be effective, you need more than a simple bar. The
Hall/Byars setup that uses four mounting points instead of just two, is
stronger by many orders of magnitude. The rear of the Pantera can be
likened to a cardboard box that is laid on its side, and open on either
end. With the ends open, the box has next to no strength and can
easily be collapsed. But if you close the ends, suddenly the box has
structural integrity.
Similarly, a single bar acts like the top surface of the open box in my
example above. A four-point mounting system gives real rigidity.
It's important that any chassis stiffening setup resist movement in
more than a single plane. The Byars/Hall deal also resists twisting.
Well-intentioned people have formed chassis stiffening devices that
have heim joints at each end, which (almost) totally defeats the
purpose, because those are designed to PROMOTE movement. While the
unit will transmit force in a straight line, it won't resist any
bending movement at all.
If you are determined to DIY, you can buy the Hall setup which comes as
a collection of unpainted pieces that need to be welded together, or
you can copy the basic idea. Or just buy the Byars setup and bolt it
in. :>)
Mike
More information about the DeTomaso
mailing list