[DeTomaso] :  Looking for pictures of rear camber brace ideas

MikeLDrew at aol.com MikeLDrew at aol.com
Thu May 22 02:02:43 EDT 2014


In a message dated 5/21/14 14 27 13, detomasoregistry at gmail.com writes:


> 
> I'm looking at the rear camber brace that connects the shock mounts and 
> I'd like to see pictures of setups beyond the standard
> camber brace and aftermarket adjustable camber braces.  I'm aware of the 
> Hall/Byars style bracing.  If you have done something
> different, I'd like to see it!
> 

>>>The stock bar is only marginally effective, as it relies solely on bolt 
tension to locate it within two slotted holes in the mounting tabs on the 
body.   Dubious.

The 'bling' replacements that have a turnbuckle are a bit better, but still 
transmit all the loads through the bolt/tab interface.

The square tube with turnbuckle is MUCH better, because the tube itself 
butts up against the inside of the chassis, and transmits the loads directly, 
with the nut/bolt only serving to hold it in position and keep it from flying 
out of the car.

But to really be effective, you need more than a simple bar.   The 
Hall/Byars setup that uses four mounting points instead of just two, is stronger by 
many orders of magnitude.   The rear of the Pantera can be likened to a 
cardboard box that is laid on its side, and open on either end.   With the ends 
open, the box has next to no strength and can easily be collapsed.   But if 
you close the ends, suddenly the box has structural integrity.

Similarly, a single bar acts like the top surface of the open box in my 
example above.   A four-point mounting system gives real rigidity.

It's important that any chassis stiffening setup resist movement in more 
than a single plane.   The Byars/Hall deal also resists twisting.   
Well-intentioned people have formed chassis stiffening devices that have heim joints 
at each end, which (almost) totally defeats the purpose, because those are 
designed to PROMOTE movement.   While the unit will transmit force in a 
straight line, it won't resist any bending movement at all.

If you are determined to DIY, you can buy the Hall setup which comes as a 
collection of unpainted pieces that need to be welded together, or you can 
copy the basic idea.   Or just buy the Byars setup and bolt it in. :>)

Mike
-------------- next part --------------
   In a message dated 5/21/14 14 27 13, detomasoregistry at gmail.com writes:

     I'm looking at the rear camber brace that connects the shock mounts
     and I'd like to see pictures of setups beyond the standard
     camber brace and aftermarket adjustable camber braces.  I'm aware of
     the Hall/Byars style bracing.  If you have done something
     different, I'd like to see it!

   >>>The stock bar is only marginally effective, as it relies solely on
   bolt tension to locate it within two slotted holes in the mounting tabs
   on the body.  Dubious.
   The 'bling' replacements that have a turnbuckle are a bit better, but
   still transmit all the loads through the bolt/tab interface.
   The square tube with turnbuckle is MUCH better, because the tube itself
   butts up against the inside of the chassis, and transmits the loads
   directly, with the nut/bolt only serving to hold it in position and
   keep it from flying out of the car.
   But to really be effective, you need more than a simple bar.  The
   Hall/Byars setup that uses four mounting points instead of just two, is
   stronger by many orders of magnitude.  The rear of the Pantera can be
   likened to a cardboard box that is laid on its side, and open on either
   end.  With the ends open, the box has next to no strength and can
   easily be collapsed.  But if you close the ends, suddenly the box has
   structural integrity.
   Similarly, a single bar acts like the top surface of the open box in my
   example above.  A four-point mounting system gives real rigidity.
   It's important that any chassis stiffening setup resist movement in
   more than a single plane.  The Byars/Hall deal also resists twisting.
   Well-intentioned people have formed chassis stiffening devices that
   have heim joints at each end, which (almost) totally defeats the
   purpose, because those are designed to PROMOTE movement.  While the
   unit will transmit force in a straight line, it won't resist any
   bending movement at all.
   If you are determined to DIY, you can buy the Hall setup which comes as
   a collection of unpainted pieces that need to be welded together, or
   you can copy the basic idea.  Or just buy the Byars setup and bolt it
   in. :>)
   Mike


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