[DeTomaso] Starter Replacement Options

Forest Goodhart forestg at att.net
Thu May 1 12:23:14 EDT 2014


Larry,
 
If you do this the starter will run on after releasing the key from the start position leading to damage to the starter.
 

________________________________
 From: Larry - Ohio Time <Larry at ohiotimecorp.com>
To: 'John Buckman' <jb841 at cox.net>; detomaso at poca.com 
Sent: Thursday, May 1, 2014 7:30 AM
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Starter Replacement Options
  

Hi John,

Oh, so they have you jump the starter mounted solenoid, "switching wire", to
the main batter cable on the starter.

When it sees voltage come down the battery cable (large one) it activates
the starter mounted solenoid.

A bit odd but I can live with that.

Thanks,

Larry (needs to see things) - Cleveland



-----Original Message-----
From: DeTomaso [mailto:detomaso-bounces at poca.com] On Behalf Of John Buckman
Sent: Wednesday, April 30, 2014 8:41 PM
To: detomaso at poca.com
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Starter Replacement Options

Interesting thought to use the stock solenoid to trigger the one on the
starter. Why would you do that and introduce another point of failure?

>>>Starter mounted solenoids typically draw far more current than remote
mounted solenoids (like the Pantera).  If you eliminated the stock firewall
mounted solenoid, and only used the starter mounted solenoid, the ignition
switch and the wiring to the starter solenoid would see a significant
increase in current during starting (when compared to the Ford solenoid).
Leaving the stock Pantera (Ford) solenoid in the "circuit" will help protect
the ignition switch (and wiring) from an early demise.

The wire that is supplied in the DB wiring kit is 12 gauge.  The Pantera's
wire to the solenoid is 16 gauge.  

Some of you may recall the ignition switch failures that early Chevy V8's
('55 and later) (and other GM vehicles) had with the ignition switch going
bad due to burned contacts, primarily in the starting circuit.  This was
caused by the high current required to activate the starter mounted
solenoid.  As I recall, GM used a 10 gauge wire to activate the starter
solenoid.  

John



_______________________________________________

Detomaso Forum Managed by POCA

DeTomaso mailing list
DeTomaso at poca.com
http://poca.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso_poca.com


_______________________________________________

Detomaso Forum Managed by POCA

DeTomaso mailing list
DeTomaso at poca.com
http://poca.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso_poca.com
-------------- next part --------------
   Larry,

   If you do this the starter will run on after releasing the key from the
   start position leading to damage to the starter.
   From: Larry - Ohio Time <Larry at ohiotimecorp.com>
   To: 'John Buckman' <jb841 at cox.net>; detomaso at poca.com
   Sent: Thursday, May 1, 2014 7:30 AM
   Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Starter Replacement Options
   Hi John,
   Oh, so they have you jump the starter mounted solenoid, "switching
   wire", to
   the main batter cable on the starter.
   When it sees voltage come down the battery cable (large one) it
   activates
   the starter mounted solenoid.
   A bit odd but I can live with that.
   Thanks,
   Larry (needs to see things) - Cleveland
   -----Original Message-----
   From: DeTomaso [mailto:[1]detomaso-bounces at poca.com] On Behalf Of John
   Buckman
   Sent: Wednesday, April 30, 2014 8:41 PM
   To: [2]detomaso at poca.com
   Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Starter Replacement Options
   Interesting thought to use the stock solenoid to trigger the one on the
   starter. Why would you do that and introduce another point of failure?
   >>>Starter mounted solenoids typically draw far more current than
   remote
   mounted solenoids (like the Pantera).  If you eliminated the stock
   firewall
   mounted solenoid, and only used the starter mounted solenoid, the
   ignition
   switch and the wiring to the starter solenoid would see a significant
   increase in current during starting (when compared to the Ford
   solenoid).
   Leaving the stock Pantera (Ford) solenoid in the "circuit" will help
   protect
   the ignition switch (and wiring) from an early demise.
   The wire that is supplied in the DB wiring kit is 12 gauge.  The
   Pantera's
   wire to the solenoid is 16 gauge.
   Some of you may recall the ignition switch failures that early Chevy
   V8's
   ('55 and later) (and other GM vehicles) had with the ignition switch
   going
   bad due to burned contacts, primarily in the starting circuit.  This
   was
   caused by the high current required to activate the starter mounted
   solenoid.  As I recall, GM used a 10 gauge wire to activate the starter
   solenoid.
   John
   _______________________________________________
   Detomaso Forum Managed by POCA
   DeTomaso mailing list
   [3]DeTomaso at poca.com
   [4]http://poca.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso_poca.com
   _______________________________________________
   Detomaso Forum Managed by POCA
   DeTomaso mailing list
   [5]DeTomaso at poca.com
   [6]http://poca.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso_poca.com

References

   1. mailto:detomaso-bounces at poca.com
   2. mailto:detomaso at poca.com
   3. mailto:DeTomaso at poca.com
   4. http://poca.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso_poca.com
   5. mailto:DeTomaso at poca.com
   6. http://poca.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso_poca.com


More information about the DeTomaso mailing list