[DeTomaso] Starter Replacement Options

[Larry - Ohio Time]

Hi John,

Oh, so they have you jump the starter mounted solenoid, "switching wire", to
the main batter cable on the starter.

When it sees voltage come down the battery cable (large one) it activates
the starter mounted solenoid.

A bit odd but I can live with that.

Thanks,

Larry (needs to see things) - Cleveland



-----Original Message-----
From: DeTomaso [mailto:detomaso-bounces at poca.com] On Behalf Of John Buckman
Sent: Wednesday, April 30, 2014 8:41 PM
To: detomaso at poca.com
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Starter Replacement Options

Interesting thought to use the stock solenoid to trigger the one on the
starter. Why would you do that and introduce another point of failure?

>>>Starter mounted solenoids typically draw far more current than remote
mounted solenoids (like the Pantera).  If you eliminated the stock firewall
mounted solenoid, and only used the starter mounted solenoid, the ignition
switch and the wiring to the starter solenoid would see a significant
increase in current during starting (when compared to the Ford solenoid).
Leaving the stock Pantera (Ford) solenoid in the "circuit" will help protect
the ignition switch (and wiring) from an early demise.

The wire that is supplied in the DB wiring kit is 12 gauge.  The Pantera's
wire to the solenoid is 16 gauge.  

Some of you may recall the ignition switch failures that early Chevy V8's
('55 and later) (and other GM vehicles) had with the ignition switch going
bad due to burned contacts, primarily in the starting circuit.  This was
caused by the high current required to activate the starter mounted
solenoid.  As I recall, GM used a 10 gauge wire to activate the starter
solenoid.  

John



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