[DeTomaso] Fwd: Ball Joints

[Will Kooiman]

For what it's worth, I recently replaced CV axles on a 1997 Acura.  It had
the same whacking point.  It worked perfectly.

I used a small 2lb sledge hammer.  I think this is actually easier on the
suspension than a pickle fork, and certainly easier on the mechanic than a
press.

--
Will





On 6/30/14 4:29 AM, "John Donahue" <demongusta at me.com> wrote:

>   Question:
>
>   I am going to look at a ball joint press. Sounds kinda neat, and less
>   brutal. Also, can I buy the ball joint boots without the ball joint?
>   The person who did this last time obviously used a fork. Thank you for
>   the helpful information.
>
>   On Jun 29, 2014, at 10:43 PM, [1]jderyke at aol.com wrote:
>
>   Not unless you have extra money. The 4 front ball joints bolt in while
>   the 3 rears are lightly pressed into the upper a-arms only.  Rears will
>   come out with a big hammer or with a vise if you also remove the a-arm.
>   On each ball joint, there is a  raised round "whacking point" built
>   into the upright about midway on the ball joint stud. By untightening
>   the nut but not completely removing it, there will be an outward
>   tension imparted to the stud from the suspension spring, but the
>   assembly will still be restrained. Tension is not much. Judicious
>   whacks on the round raised whacking point will release the ball joint
>   stud taper from the upright
>
>   TIPS
>   1)- Light hammer-taps will only make you tired- you really need to hit
>   the thing in the right place to loosen the taper!
>   2)- A large punch held by someone else with a pair of Vise-Grip pliers
>   may help your hammer accuracy & power.
>   3)- If you own an air hammer, use a blunt anvil and apply the end to
>   the whacking point. The ball joint will fall out so fast you'll wonder
>   why you even own a hand-held hammer! Also works wonderfully well on
>   tie-rod ends.
>   4)- Pickle-fork balljoint or tie-rod removers are absolutely guaranteed
>   to ruin any rubber boots that are still useable. New boots are not
>   always included with replacement ball joints or tie rod ends: inquire
>   before ordering.
>   5)- Before ordering new ball joints, also check for zerk fittings so
>   the new parts can be occasionally be greased. If there are no zerks,
>   they can easily be added if you own a drill bit set and a 1/4-28 SAE
>   tap. You will only get about 2 threads but that's enough. Grease the
>   drill and tap before cutting into the ball joint to collect metal
>   chips.  New zerks are around 15-c- each at chain auto parts stores
>   everywhere. Again, applies to tie rod ends too.
>   Good luck- J DeRyke
>   -----Original Message-----
>   From: John Donahue <[2]demongusta at me.com>
>   To: detomaso <[3]detomaso at poca.com>
>   Cc: detomaso <[4]detomaso at poca.com>
>   Sent: Sun, Jun 29, 2014 9:25 am
>   Subject: [DeTomaso] Fwd: Ball Joints
>   Forgot to Cc The List.
>
>   Begin forwarded message:
>
>   From: John Donahue <[1][5]demongusta at me.com>
>
>   Subject: Ball Joints
>
>   Date: June 29, 2014 at 9:22:27 AM PDT
>
>   To: [2][6]detomaso at poca.com
>
>   Hi All:
>   I am replacing the control-arm bushings (again), and noticed a couple
>   "torn" rubber seals on my ball joints. Never replaced ball joints
>   before. Any tips?? Do you take them to a "suspension shop" and have
>   them pressed in?
>   Jack
>   4348
>
>References
>
>   1. [7]mailto:demongusta at me.com
>   2. [8]mailto:detomaso at poca.com
>
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>References
>
>   1. mailto:jderyke at aol.com
>   2. mailto:demongusta at me.com
>   3. mailto:detomaso at poca.com
>   4. mailto:detomaso at poca.com
>   5. mailto:demongusta at me.com
>   6. mailto:detomaso at poca.com
>   7. mailto:demongusta at me.com?
>   8. mailto:detomaso at poca.com?
>   9. mailto:DeTomaso at poca.com
>  10. http://poca.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso_poca.com
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