[DeTomaso] Fwd: Ball Joints

[jderyke at aol.com]

Not unless you have extra money. The 4 front ball joints bolt in while the 3 rears are lightly pressed into the upper a-arms only.  Rears will come out with a big hammer or with a vise if you also remove the a-arm. On each ball joint, there is a  raised round "whacking point" built into the upright about midway on the ball joint stud. By untightening the nut but not completely removing it, there will be an outward tension imparted to the stud from the suspension spring, but the assembly will still be restrained. Tension is not much. Judicious whacks on the round raised whacking point will release the ball joint stud taper from the upright 
                                                                    TIPS 
1)- Light hammer-taps will only make you tired- you really need to hit the thing in the right place to loosen the taper! 
2)- A large punch held by someone else with a pair of Vise-Grip pliers may help your hammer accuracy & power.
3)- If you own an air hammer, use a blunt anvil and apply the end to the whacking point. The ball joint will fall out so fast you'll wonder why you even own a hand-held hammer! Also works wonderfully well on tie-rod ends.
4)- Pickle-fork balljoint or tie-rod removers are absolutely guaranteed to ruin any rubber boots that are still useable. New boots are not always included with replacement ball joints or tie rod ends: inquire before ordering. 
5)- Before ordering new ball joints, also check for zerk fittings so the new parts can be occasionally be greased. If there are no zerks, they can easily be added if you own a drill bit set and a 1/4-28 SAE tap. You will only get about 2 threads but that's enough. Grease the drill and tap before cutting into the ball joint to collect metal chips.  New zerks are around 15¢ each at chain auto parts stores everywhere. Again, applies to tie rod ends too.
Good luck- J DeRyke


 

 

 

-----Original Message-----
From: John Donahue <demongusta at me.com>
To: detomaso <detomaso at poca.com>
Cc: detomaso <detomaso at poca.com>
Sent: Sun, Jun 29, 2014 9:25 am
Subject: [DeTomaso] Fwd: Ball Joints


   Forgot to Cc The List.

   Begin forwarded message:

   From: John Donahue <[1]demongusta at me.com>

   Subject: Ball Joints

   Date: June 29, 2014 at 9:22:27 AM PDT

   To: [2]detomaso at poca.com

   Hi All:
   I am replacing the control-arm bushings (again), and noticed a couple
   "torn" rubber seals on my ball joints. Never replaced ball joints
   before. Any tips?? Do you take them to a "suspension shop" and have
   them pressed in?
   Jack
   4348

References

   1. mailto:demongusta at me.com
   2. mailto:detomaso at poca.com

 
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-------------- next part --------------
   Not unless you have extra money. The 4 front ball joints bolt in while
   the 3 rears are lightly pressed into the upper a-arms only.  Rears will
   come out with a big hammer or with a vise if you also remove the a-arm.
   On each ball joint, there is a  raised round "whacking point" built
   into the upright about midway on the ball joint stud. By untightening
   the nut but not completely removing it, there will be an outward
   tension imparted to the stud from the suspension spring, but the
   assembly will still be restrained. Tension is not much. Judicious
   whacks on the round raised whacking point will release the ball joint
   stud taper from the upright

   TIPS
   1)- Light hammer-taps will only make you tired- you really need to hit
   the thing in the right place to loosen the taper!
   2)- A large punch held by someone else with a pair of Vise-Grip pliers
   may help your hammer accuracy & power.
   3)- If you own an air hammer, use a blunt anvil and apply the end to
   the whacking point. The ball joint will fall out so fast you'll wonder
   why you even own a hand-held hammer! Also works wonderfully well on
   tie-rod ends.
   4)- Pickle-fork balljoint or tie-rod removers are absolutely guaranteed
   to ruin any rubber boots that are still useable. New boots are not
   always included with replacement ball joints or tie rod ends: inquire
   before ordering.
   5)- Before ordering new ball joints, also check for zerk fittings so
   the new parts can be occasionally be greased. If there are no zerks,
   they can easily be added if you own a drill bit set and a 1/4-28 SAE
   tap. You will only get about 2 threads but that's enough. Grease the
   drill and tap before cutting into the ball joint to collect metal
   chips.  New zerks are around 15A-c- each at chain auto parts stores
   everywhere. Again, applies to tie rod ends too.
   Good luck- J DeRyke

   -----Original Message-----
   From: John Donahue <demongusta at me.com>
   To: detomaso <detomaso at poca.com>
   Cc: detomaso <detomaso at poca.com>
   Sent: Sun, Jun 29, 2014 9:25 am
   Subject: [DeTomaso] Fwd: Ball Joints
   Forgot to Cc The List.

   Begin forwarded message:

   From: John Donahue <[1][1]demongusta at me.com>

   Subject: Ball Joints

   Date: June 29, 2014 at 9:22:27 AM PDT

   To: [2][2]detomaso at poca.com

   Hi All:
   I am replacing the control-arm bushings (again), and noticed a couple
   "torn" rubber seals on my ball joints. Never replaced ball joints
   before. Any tips?? Do you take them to a "suspension shop" and have
   them pressed in?
   Jack
   4348

References

   1. [3]mailto:demongusta at me.com
   2. [4]mailto:detomaso at poca.com

_______________________________________________

Detomaso Forum Managed by POCA

DeTomaso mailing list
[5]DeTomaso at poca.com
[6]http://poca.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso_poca.com

References

   1. mailto:demongusta at me.com
   2. mailto:detomaso at poca.com
   3. mailto:demongusta at me.com?
   4. mailto:detomaso at poca.com?
   5. mailto:DeTomaso at poca.com
   6. http://poca.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso_poca.com