[DeTomaso] Front mounted A/C
Mike Drew
MikeLDrew at aol.com
Thu Jun 5 23:35:51 EDT 2014
It was on May 22nd. Here it is again...
Mike
--------
Hi guys,
Years ago Chris Difani was kind enough to let me borrow his vacuum-powered cooling system filling tool, and was even kinder to let me keep it here more or less indefinitely, since I'm always working on either my car or somebody else's.
My car has been in the air for months undergoing the world's slowest brake system upgrade, part of which required draining the cooling system. The brakes are all plumbed now so today I chose to reinstall the hose I had to remove, and fill it up.
With my Iphone lying handy I decided to show how this tool works. It's brilliant!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nPG2B_qlwqQ
Unfortunately, this particular model is no longer available from Harbor Freight Tools where he got it. A different company offers several competing designs however.
http://www.uview.com/index.cfm?DSP=ProductList&pagepath=Products/Cooling&id=45700
This tool is one of the best investments I ever would have made, had I actually made it! Having a friend like Chris who just lets me keep it is even better!
Mike
Sent from my iPhone
On Jun 5, 2014, at 20:09, "Stephen Nelson" <steve at snclocks.com> wrote:
> I don't remember seeing a reference to your vacuum method. Searched youtube
> but didn't spot it. Can you provide a link?
>
> Stephen Nelson
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: DeTomaso [mailto:detomaso-bounces at poca.com] On Behalf Of
> MikeLDrew at aol.com
> Sent: Thursday, June 05, 2014 8:01 PM
> To: demongusta at me.com; adin at frontier.net
> Cc: detomaso at poca.com
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Front mounted A/C
>
>
> In a message dated 6/5/14 15 34 8, demongusta at me.com writes:
>
>
>> Can someone define "overheating"?
>> Other than the obvious - seizing the motor
>
>>>> Well, there is an optimal temperature range for an engine. Ford says
> it's 192 degrees, but just to be on the safe side I try to run mine around
> 180 degrees.
>
> Water boils at 212F at sea level with no pressure. But the boiling point
> goes down as the elevation goes up due to lower pressure. A radiator cap
> adds positive pressure (13-16 lbs is optimal) which raises the boiling
> point,
> so that water will stay in liquid solution up to about 260F.
>
> Once you pass the boiling point, very bad things happen. The water turns
> to steam, the engine cools unevenly, heat is unable to escape, pressure
> skyrockets as water turns to steam (a water droplet expands to 2500 times
> its
> size when turned to steam), the radiator cap vents and dumps water on the
> ground, the heads can warp, head gaskets blow, water sprays everywhere, your
> day
> is done and your engine is cooked.
>
> Note that modern cars are designed to run at hotter temps and it's
> apparently quite common to see 230-240 degrees. I don't own anything
> modern so
> I'll stick with 180-200 thank you!
>
> There is absolutely no reason for a Pantera to overheat. Most Panteras
> that I've seen that were running hot, were doing so not because of any fault
>
> with the system, but rather due to poor maintenance--the owner had not
> properly bled the air out of the cooling system. Air is a terrible thing
> to have
> in your cooling system and will lead to all sorts of problems.
>
> While it is possible to get perhaps 95% of the air out using conventional
> bleeding techniques, a vacuum-based bleeder such as the one I demonstrated
> on
> Youtube a couple of weeks ago gets you close to 100% effective and is much
> mo' bettah.
>
> Mike
>
-------------- next part --------------
It was on May 22nd. Here it is again...
Mike
--------
Hi guys,
Years ago Chris Difani was kind enough to let me borrow his
vacuum-powered cooling system filling tool, and was even kinder to let
me keep it here more or less indefinitely, since I'm always working on
either my car or somebody else's.
My car has been in the air for months undergoing the world's slowest
brake system upgrade, part of which required draining the cooling
system. The brakes are all plumbed now so today I chose to reinstall
the hose I had to remove, and fill it up.
With my Iphone lying handy I decided to show how this tool works. It's
brilliant!
[1]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nPG2B_qlwqQ
Unfortunately, this particular model is no longer available from Harbor
Freight Tools where he got it. A different company offers several
competing designs however.
[2]http://www.uview.com/index.cfm?DSP=ProductList&pagepath=Products/Coo
ling&id=45700
This tool is one of the best investments I ever would have made, had I
actually made it! Having a friend like Chris who just lets me keep it
is even better!
Mike
Sent from my iPhone
On Jun 5, 2014, at 20:09, "Stephen Nelson" <[3]steve at snclocks.com>
wrote:
I don't remember seeing a reference to your vacuum method. Searched
youtube
but didn't spot it. Can you provide a link?
Stephen Nelson
-----Original Message-----
From: DeTomaso [[4]mailto:detomaso-bounces at poca.com] On Behalf Of
[5]MikeLDrew at aol.com
Sent: Thursday, June 05, 2014 8:01 PM
To: [6]demongusta at me.com; [7]adin at frontier.net
Cc: [8]detomaso at poca.com
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Front mounted A/C
In a message dated 6/5/14 15 34 8, [9]demongusta at me.com writes:
Can someone define "overheating"?
Other than the obvious - seizing the motor
Well, there is an optimal temperature range for an engine. Ford
says
it's 192 degrees, but just to be on the safe side I try to run mine
around
180 degrees.
Water boils at 212F at sea level with no pressure. But the boiling
point
goes down as the elevation goes up due to lower pressure. A radiator
cap
adds positive pressure (13-16 lbs is optimal) which raises the boiling
point,
so that water will stay in liquid solution up to about 260F.
Once you pass the boiling point, very bad things happen. The water
turns
to steam, the engine cools unevenly, heat is unable to escape, pressure
skyrockets as water turns to steam (a water droplet expands to 2500
times
its
size when turned to steam), the radiator cap vents and dumps water on
the
ground, the heads can warp, head gaskets blow, water sprays everywhere,
your
day
is done and your engine is cooked.
Note that modern cars are designed to run at hotter temps and it's
apparently quite common to see 230-240 degrees. I don't own anything
modern so
I'll stick with 180-200 thank you!
There is absolutely no reason for a Pantera to overheat. Most
Panteras
that I've seen that were running hot, were doing so not because of any
fault
with the system, but rather due to poor maintenance--the owner had not
properly bled the air out of the cooling system. Air is a terrible
thing
to have
in your cooling system and will lead to all sorts of problems.
While it is possible to get perhaps 95% of the air out using
conventional
bleeding techniques, a vacuum-based bleeder such as the one I
demonstrated
on
Youtube a couple of weeks ago gets you close to 100% effective and is
much
mo' bettah.
Mike
References
1. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nPG2B_qlwqQ
2. http://www.uview.com/index.cfm?DSP=ProductList&pagepath=Products/Cooling&id=45700
3. mailto:steve at snclocks.com
4. mailto:detomaso-bounces at poca.com
5. mailto:MikeLDrew at aol.com
6. mailto:demongusta at me.com
7. mailto:adin at frontier.net
8. mailto:detomaso at poca.com
9. mailto:demongusta at me.com
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