[DeTomaso] BRAKE Line Flare
jderyke at aol.com
jderyke at aol.com
Sat Feb 22 17:04:44 EST 2014
Mfgrs use different line sizes on most masters to keep casual mechanics from mixing up the front & rear brake lines. In many masters, the front pistons are larger as is the reservoir, and the pressures & volume in front are meant to be different. The fittings both are (or should be) standard sizes; if this isn't the case, I'd call Hall and ask what fittings are needed. Of take the assembly to a fitting store and try some of their stock. The correct fittings should NOT need wrenches to screw in.
Double flairs are only needed on high pressure tubing made as a sheet wrapped around a rod and brazed to make a tube. This was once known as 'Bundy-weld' and was the way brake lines were made in the U.S. starting in the early '40s. Not sure if mfgrs still use it in this century. Look closely at a cleaned bundyweld-tube and you'll see a faint copper colored line along the length.This braze line will crack if NOT doubled, while for instance, stainless tubing is nearly impossible to double-flair without cracking; the folded radius seems too tight for the harder metal and it work-hardens & splits crosswise. Bundyweld splits lengthwise.
Stock Pantera brake lines are metric size tubing and use ISO bubble-flairs. Needs a whole different failring tool (sold by K & E). Cutting off the bubble ends and trying to flair with a U.S tool, you'll probably find the metric tubing is slightly too small to be firmly held in the tool and it slides through when you apply flairing pressure. Wrapping the tubing with brass shim stock in the clamp area allows a U.S tool to hold and form U.S flairs (including double) on the metric tubing. And if you haven't messed with Pantera brake lines before, after changing ANYTHING, I would start the car and STAND on the brake pedal to try and break any weak joints under max load. Better in your garage than in heavy 80-mph traffic on the freeway! Good luck, Sean- J Deryke
-----Original Message-----
From: sean mundy <seanmundy at hotmail.com>
To: detomaso <detomaso at poca.com>
Sent: Fri, Feb 21, 2014 5:04 pm
Subject: [DeTomaso] BRAKE Line Flare
Installing the new brake master and booster and ran into some
problems. Trying to verify what flares I need.
Here is a picture of the booster from Hall. It looks like its the same
type booster that other owners have used.
http://poca.com/index.php/album/mundy-sean#
The master came with the screw in connectors but they are two different
sizes.
There are also different looking size connections for the front/rear.
The rear brake connection is
much larger than the front. Have no idea why.
Do both of these connections require double flares?
Can I cut off the ends of the stock lines and flare the ends or is the
stock brake line the wrong size? 3/16?
The 3/16 double flare that I made looks like it would fit the front
brake connection but the rear connection
is just way too big.
Thanks for any help. Sean
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-------------- next part --------------
Mfgrs use different line sizes on most masters to keep casual mechanics
from mixing up the front & rear brake lines. In many masters, the front
pistons are larger as is the reservoir, and the pressures & volume in
front are meant to be different. The fittings both are (or should be)
standard sizes; if this isn't the case, I'd call Hall and ask what
fittings are needed. Of take the assembly to a fitting store and try
some of their stock. The correct fittings should NOT need wrenches to
screw in.
Double flairs are only needed on high pressure tubing made as a sheet
wrapped around a rod and brazed to make a tube. This was once known as
'Bundy-weld' and was the way brake lines were made in the U.S. starting
in the early '40s. Not sure if mfgrs still use it in this century. Look
closely at a cleaned bundyweld-tube and you'll see a faint copper
colored line along the length.This braze line will crack if NOT
doubled, while for instance, stainless tubing is nearly impossible to
double-flair without cracking; the folded radius seems too tight for
the harder metal and it work-hardens & splits crosswise. Bundyweld
splits lengthwise.
Stock Pantera brake lines are metric size tubing and use ISO
bubble-flairs. Needs a whole different failring tool (sold by K & E).
Cutting off the bubble ends and trying to flair with a U.S tool, you'll
probably find the metric tubing is slightly too small to be firmly held
in the tool and it slides through when you apply flairing pressure.
Wrapping the tubing with brass shim stock in the clamp area allows a
U.S tool to hold and form U.S flairs (including double) on the metric
tubing. And if you haven't messed with Pantera brake lines before,
after changing ANYTHING, I would start the car and STAND on the brake
pedal to try and break any weak joints under max load. Better in your
garage than in heavy 80-mph traffic on the freeway! Good luck, Sean- J
Deryke
-----Original Message-----
From: sean mundy <seanmundy at hotmail.com>
To: detomaso <detomaso at poca.com>
Sent: Fri, Feb 21, 2014 5:04 pm
Subject: [DeTomaso] BRAKE Line Flare
Installing the new brake master and booster and ran into some
problems. Trying to verify what flares I need.
Here is a picture of the booster from Hall. It looks like its the same
type booster that other owners have used.
[1]http://poca.com/index.php/album/mundy-sean#
The master came with the screw in connectors but they are two different
sizes.
There are also different looking size connections for the front/rear.
The rear brake connection is
much larger than the front. Have no idea why.
Do both of these connections require double flares?
Can I cut off the ends of the stock lines and flare the ends or is the
stock brake line the wrong size? 3/16?
The 3/16 double flare that I made looks like it would fit the front
brake connection but the rear connection
is just way too big.
Thanks for any help. Sean
_______________________________________________
Detomaso Forum Managed by POCA
DeTomaso mailing list
[2]DeTomaso at poca.com
[3]http://poca.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso_poca.com
References
1. http://poca.com/index.php/album/mundy-sean
2. mailto:DeTomaso at poca.com
3. http://poca.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso_poca.com
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