[DeTomaso] Strange electrical issue - is it time for a new starter?

[Peter Cajthaml]

Jim,

I have a brand new Sears Die Hard Platinum (Odyssey) - less than 6 months
old.  I like using the cutoff switch when I am not driving the car to
minimize the leakage current from draining the battery, but I will remove
the switch to see if it solves this issue.  I may replace it with the more
robust one Mike described above.  I typically only drive the car on the
weekend, and if I am away, the car may sit for 2 or 3 weeks w/o being
driven.

As always thanks for the advice,

Peter
#2761


On Mon, Feb 17, 2014 at 7:13 PM, Pantdino <pantdino at aol.com> wrote:

> How old is your battery?
>
> If the disconnect switch is OK and the problem persists, replace your
> battery. Or if you have the green knob kind Mike describes replace it too.
>
> I spent hours evaluating things last time I had this "no start" situation
> and replacing the battery made it all go away.
>
> Jim Oddie
>  -----Original Message-----
> From: MikeLDrew <MikeLDrew at aol.com>
> To: pcajthaml <pcajthaml at gmail.com>; detomaso <detomaso at poca.com>
> Sent: Mon, Feb 17, 2014 1:15 pm
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Strange electrical issue - is it time for a new
> starter?
>
>
> In a message dated 2/17/14 12 08 33, pcajthaml at gmail.com writes:
>
>
> So far, after turning off the battery disconnect switch and then back on,
> the starter kicks over as when new.  Should I replace the starter before I
> get stuck somewhere?
>
>
>
> >>>No.  Your starter is working fine.  The most obvious suggestion is to
> check all your connections--at the battery, starter solenoid, and the
> starter itself.
>
> Assuming they are all good, the problem is almost assuredly within your
> disconnect switch.  You don't mention which kind you have? Broadly, there
> are two types.  One has a post that the battery cable clamps to, a clamp to
> attach it to the battery, and a knob (usually green) that you unscrew to
> electrically separate the two halves.  These things are pretty effective,
> but also extremely cheap.  I would imagine (guess) that overtightening can
> break things.
>
> The other kind is a proper switch, with two posts (one for the cable in,
> another for a cable out) and a keyed switch in between.  These seem to be
> more robust.
>
> As an experiment, remove the switch from your system and evaluate
> performance.  It's likely that things will function just perfectly.  At
> that point you get to decide whether you want to service the switch (could
> there be a buildup of corrosion), replace it, or just do away with it
> entirely.
>
> FWIW I have key-type switches on two cars, and a knob-type switch on a
> third one--all of them have worked great for years, although the knob-style
> switch is rarely disconnected so it hasn't had a chance to wear out yet.
>
> Let us know what you find out!
>
> Mike
>
> _______________________________________________
>
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>
>
-------------- next part --------------
   Jim,
   I have a brand new Sears Die Hard Platinum (Odyssey) - less than 6
   months old.  I like using the cutoff switch when I am not driving the
   car to minimize the leakage current from draining the battery, but I
   will remove the switch to see if it solves this issue.  I may replace
   it with the more robust one Mike described above.  I typically only
   drive the car on the weekend, and if I am away, the car may sit for 2
   or 3 weeks w/o being driven.
   As always thanks for the advice,
   Peter
   #2761

   On Mon, Feb 17, 2014 at 7:13 PM, Pantdino <[1]pantdino at aol.com> wrote:

   How old is your battery?



   If the disconnect switch is OK and the problem persists, replace your
   battery. Or if you have the green knob kind Mike describes replace it
   too.



   I spent hours evaluating things last time I had this "no start"
   situation and replacing the battery made it all go away.



   Jim Oddie

   -----Original Message-----
   From: MikeLDrew <[2]MikeLDrew at aol.com>
   To: pcajthaml <[3]pcajthaml at gmail.com>; detomaso <[4]detomaso at poca.com>
   Sent: Mon, Feb 17, 2014 1:15 pm
   Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Strange electrical issue - is it time for a new
   starter?
   In a message dated 2/17/14 12 08 33, [5]pcajthaml at gmail.com writes:

     So far, after turning off the battery disconnect switch and then
     back on, the starter kicks over as when new.  Should I replace the
     starter before I get stuck somewhere?

   >>>No.  Your starter is working fine.  The most obvious suggestion is
   to check all your connections--at the battery, starter solenoid, and
   the starter itself.
   Assuming they are all good, the problem is almost assuredly within your
   disconnect switch.  You don't mention which kind you have? Broadly,
   there are two types.  One has a post that the battery cable clamps to,
   a clamp to attach it to the battery, and a knob (usually green) that
   you unscrew to electrically separate the two halves.  These things are
   pretty effective, but also extremely cheap.  I would imagine (guess)
   that overtightening can break things.
   The other kind is a proper switch, with two posts (one for the cable
   in, another for a cable out) and a keyed switch in between.  These seem
   to be more robust.
   As an experiment, remove the switch from your system and evaluate
   performance.  It's likely that things will function just perfectly.  At
   that point you get to decide whether you want to service the switch
   (could there be a buildup of corrosion), replace it, or just do away
   with it entirely.
   FWIW I have key-type switches on two cars, and a knob-type switch on a
   third one--all of them have worked great for years, although the
   knob-style switch is rarely disconnected so it hasn't had a chance to
   wear out yet.
   Let us know what you find out!
   Mike
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References

   1. mailto:pantdino at aol.com
   2. mailto:MikeLDrew at aol.com
   3. mailto:pcajthaml at gmail.com
   4. mailto:detomaso at poca.com
   5. mailto:pcajthaml at gmail.com
   6. mailto:DeTomaso at poca.com
   7. http://poca.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso_poca.com