[DeTomaso] Coolant
Brian Dudley
bd8134 at gmail.com
Wed Apr 30 11:20:34 EDT 2014
If you believe what you read, many say the newer antifreeze can attack the
solder and copper in radiators.
The recommendation seems to be the original green antifreeze which is
suitable for all metals.
The down side of the green is that the inhibitors do not last as long as
the newer breeds of antifreeze.
http://www.underhoodservice.com/Article/46495/cooling_system_antifreeze_requirements.aspx
http://www.mgexp.com/article/coolant.html
Even if you replace the original radiator with an aluminum one, your heater
core is most likely copper with solder.
I am using the full strength Peak green antifreeze diluted 50/50 with
distilled water.
http://images.peakauto.com/PEAK_conv_green_spec_sheet_LORES.pdf
I found it at Advance Auto Parts.
YMMV
Cheers
Brian
On Tue, Apr 29, 2014 at 8:56 PM, Tom Shinrock <tmshinro at aol.com> wrote:
> After 23 years I had to replace my Hall radiator. Since I never had
> overheating problems, I decided to put another Hall radiator back in
> instead of dealing with the extra time and expense of putting in an
> aluminum radiator with sucker fans (I still use the factory pusher
> fans). I got the radiator installed today so I'm ready to put coolant
> back in.
> I've always used the old green coolant. Before I put new coolant back
> in, I thought I'd ping the group for opinions on what coolant to use.
> Green, Yellow (extended life), or you name a color. The one thing I
> won't use is Dex-cool (orange). I basically have a rebuilt stock
> engine and the brass/copper radiator. My main question is whether the
> extended life coolant is a better way to go. I looked at a couple of
> places and saw that they didn't even stock the full strength green
> coolant anymore.
> Thanks for any suggestions.
> Tom
> 5186
>
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-------------- next part --------------
If you believe what you read, many say the newer antifreeze can attack
the solder and copper in radiators.
The recommendation seems to be the original green antifreeze which is
suitable for all metals.
The down side of the green is that the inhibitors do not last as long
as the newer breeds of antifreeze.
[1]http://www.underhoodservice.com/Article/46495/cooling_system_antifre
eze_requirements.aspx
[2]http://www.mgexp.com/article/coolant.html
Even if you replace the original radiator with an aluminum one, your
heater core is most likely copper with solder.
I am using the full strength Peak green antifreeze diluted 50/50 with
distilled water.
[3]http://images.peakauto.com/PEAK_conv_green_spec_sheet_LORES.pdf
I found it at Advance Auto Parts.
YMMV
Cheers
Brian
On Tue, Apr 29, 2014 at 8:56 PM, Tom Shinrock <[4]tmshinro at aol.com>
wrote:
A A After 23 years I had to replace my Hall radiator. A Since I
never had
A A overheating problems, I decided to put another Hall radiator
back in
A A instead of dealing with the extra time and expense of putting
in an
A A aluminum radiator with sucker fans (I still use the factory
pusher
A A fans). A I got the radiator installed today so I'm ready to put
coolant
A A back in.
A A I've always used the old green coolant. A Before I put new
coolant back
A A in, I thought I'd ping the group for opinions on what coolant
to use.
A A Green, Yellow (extended life), or you name a color. A The one
thing I
A A won't use is Dex-cool (orange). A I basically have a rebuilt
stock
A A engine and the brass/copper radiator. A My main question is
whether the
A A extended life coolant is a better way to go. A I looked at a
couple of
A A places and saw that they didn't even stock the full strength
green
A A coolant anymore.
A A Thanks for any suggestions.
A A Tom
A A 5186
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References
1. http://www.underhoodservice.com/Article/46495/cooling_system_antifreeze_requirements.aspx
2. http://www.mgexp.com/article/coolant.html
3. http://images.peakauto.com/PEAK_conv_green_spec_sheet_LORES.pdf
4. mailto:tmshinro at aol.com
5. mailto:DeTomaso at poca.com
6. http://poca.com/mailman/listinfo/detomaso_poca.com
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