[DeTomaso] Ring bolts (again)

thomas thomas at hax.se
Sat Apr 12 18:25:13 EDT 2014



> 12 apr 2014 kl. 19:11 skrev MikeLDrew at aol.com:
> 
> 
> In a message dated 4/12/14 9 31 11, thomas at hax.se writes:
> 
> 
>> I'm getting ready to pull the ZF to see if it is the flywheel, or clutch
>> that is causing the fairly violent vibrations I've had sine the latest
>> engine rebuild, where I replaced the stuck flywheel and clutch with a
>> Fidanza aluminum flywheel and Pantera specific Centerforce clutch.
> 
> >>>Ah.  Ooh.  Er....
> 
> The Centerforce clutch uses a non-Ford bolt pattern, so you would have had to have a machine shop redrill the holes in the flywheel to accomodate the clutch.  It's very easy to get that job wrong; when that happens the car will shake like a wet dog and there's nothing you can do about it.

Yep, I drilled the new holes myself and that is probably the reason for the problem. 

I'm planning to pull the ZF, remove the bell housing and try shifting out part by part until the vibrations stop by just installing the bell housing and starter. 

I think the flywheel will be good, and if so I will likely get a McLeod clutch that uses the stock mounting holes.

> 
> For that reason alone I am very much opposed to Centerforce clutches.
> 
> Chances are you could fix it by buing a very expensive Centerforce flywheel, or alternately, a slightly less expensive McLeod clutch that would bolt right up to the original holes on the flywheel.
> 
> The Fidanza flywheel uses a removable balance weight so that you can have either 28.8 or 50.0 oz of imbalance, making it suitable for either style of Ford engine.  If you got that wrong, that could be the problem too.

I believe I still have the large weight in the box, so I think the correct weight is attached.

>> 
>> >The first time I had it out I drilled the old ring bolts and safety
>> wired it, but I have decided to get new ARP bolts and redo it.
> 
> >>>Why?  If it ain't broke don't fix it! :>)

After I had installed everything I realized that I had torqued the bolts wrong, and reusing the serrated stock bolts was perhaps not a good idea. I will at least open it up and check things out. 

>> 
>> >So where to get the bolts and pan gasket?
> 
> >>>ARP sells ZF ring gear bolts but does so under exclusive contract with Lloyd Butfoy.  They will not sell them via any other channels.
>> 
>> >Someone mentioned ARP bolts for some Euro box (Rover?) that were of the
>> correct size? Might be easier to get them around here.
> >>>As far as I know, the ones ARP makes for the ZF are completely unique.
> 
>> >By the way, I have now had help from a guy in the US to tune the EFI and
>> it is like a new car :) In case anyone needs assistance tuning a stock
>> Ford EFI I can recommend http://www.efidynotuning.com
> 
> >>>Sounds great!
> 
> Now, if you can only fix that shaking problem....
> 
> Mike
> !DSPAM:534973d5173571209923907!
-------------- next part --------------
   12 apr 2014 kl. 19:11 skrev [1]MikeLDrew at aol.com:

   In a message dated 4/12/14 9 31 11, [2]thomas at hax.se writes:

     I'm getting ready to pull the ZF to see if it is the flywheel, or
     clutch
     that is causing the fairly violent vibrations I've had sine the
     latest
     engine rebuild, where I replaced the stuck flywheel and clutch with
     a
     Fidanza aluminum flywheel and Pantera specific Centerforce clutch.

   >>>Ah.  Ooh.  Er....
   The Centerforce clutch uses a non-Ford bolt pattern, so you would have
   had to have a machine shop redrill the holes in the flywheel to
   accomodate the clutch.  It's very easy to get that job wrong; when that
   happens the car will shake like a wet dog and there's nothing you can
   do about it.

   Yep, I drilled the new holes myself and that is probably the reason for
   the problem.

   I'm planning to pull the ZF, remove the bell housing and try shifting
   out part by part until the vibrations stop by just installing the bell
   housing and starter.

   I think the flywheel will be good, and if so I will likely get a McLeod
   clutch that uses the stock mounting holes.

   For that reason alone I am very much opposed to Centerforce clutches.
   Chances are you could fix it by buing a very expensive Centerforce
   flywheel, or alternately, a slightly less expensive McLeod clutch that
   would bolt right up to the original holes on the flywheel.
   The Fidanza flywheel uses a removable balance weight so that you can
   have either 28.8 or 50.0 oz of imbalance, making it suitable for either
   style of Ford engine.  If you got that wrong, that could be the problem
   too.

   I believe I still have the large weight in the box, so I think the
   correct weight is attached.

     >The first time I had it out I drilled the old ring bolts and safety
     wired it, but I have decided to get new ARP bolts and redo it.

   >>>Why?  If it ain't broke don't fix it! :>)

   After I had installed everything I realized that I had torqued the
   bolts wrong, and reusing the serrated stock bolts was perhaps not a
   good idea. I will at least open it up and check things out.

     >So where to get the bolts and pan gasket?

   >>>ARP sells ZF ring gear bolts but does so under exclusive contract
   with Lloyd Butfoy.  They will not sell them via any other channels.

     >Someone mentioned ARP bolts for some Euro box (Rover?) that were of
     the
     correct size? Might be easier to get them around here.

   >>>As far as I know, the ones ARP makes for the ZF are completely
   unique.

     >By the way, I have now had help from a guy in the US to tune the
     EFI and
     it is like a new car :) In case anyone needs assistance tuning a
     stock
     Ford EFI I can recommend [3]http://www.efidynotuning.com

   >>>Sounds great!
   Now, if you can only fix that shaking problem....
   Mike
   !DSPAM:534973d5173571209923907!

References

   1. mailto:MikeLDrew at aol.com
   2. mailto:thomas at hax.se
   3. http://www.efidynotuning.com/


More information about the DeTomaso mailing list