[DeTomaso] Radiator Fans Running Constantly
MikeLDrew at aol.com
MikeLDrew at aol.com
Thu Apr 10 00:13:52 EDT 2014
In a message dated 4/9/14 12 37 39, reillyms at live.com writes:
> I have the stock wiring and only disconnected the brown and black wires
> from each of the temp sensors in the radiator during the removal and
> installation (took photos to reinstall correctly). I assume the temp senders are
> fine as I believe if they failed the fan(s) would stop working.
>
>>>Normally correct, I think? I wonder if, during the recoring process,
they got damaged somehow so that they are always on? It's easy to find out,
even for an electric imbicile like me. If I'm reading the diagrams
correctly, the fan thermoswitches provide a ground to the fan relays. When the
radiator water heats up to a certain amount, the switches close, providing a
ground path, which then causes the respective fan relay to close, and send
power to the fan.
With the car cold, there should be no continuity between one side of the
fan switch, and the other side. Unplug the wires, get out your voltmeter,
and check for continuity. If it's there, there's your problem.
> >I plan to trouble shoot it all this weekend and any leads are
> appreciated. Also I saw some great ran and headlight control kits from 'Pantera
> Electronics." Anyone have experience with these? They look to be a similar
> solution to the headlight/fan control fix Mike Drew published previously.
>
>>>Jon's solution is much more sophisticated and elegant. The article I
co-wrote detailed how to take the heavy electrical loads off the headlight
switch, and also how to provide a more 'pure' power and ground path for the
fans, but they still operate in a conventional on-off fashion. Jon's device
is a variable fan motor system, which spins the fans at a variable speed
depending on temperature conditions. I don't find that to be necessary, but
it is a complicated and intricate solution to what is otherwise a very simple
problem. Like everything he makes, I believe it's exquisitely engineered
and constructed....
Mike
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In a message dated 4/9/14 12 37 39, reillyms at live.com writes:
I have the stock wiring and only disconnected the brown and black
wires from each of the temp sensors in the radiator during the
removal and installation (took photos to reinstall correctly). I
assume the temp senders are fine as I believe if they failed the
fan(s) would stop working.
>>>Normally correct, I think? I wonder if, during the recoring
process, they got damaged somehow so that they are always on? It's
easy to find out, even for an electric imbicile like me. If I'm
reading the diagrams correctly, the fan thermoswitches provide a ground
to the fan relays. When the radiator water heats up to a certain
amount, the switches close, providing a ground path, which then causes
the respective fan relay to close, and send power to the fan.
With the car cold, there should be no continuity between one side of
the fan switch, and the other side. Unplug the wires, get out your
voltmeter, and check for continuity. If it's there, there's your
problem.
>I plan to trouble shoot it all this weekend and any leads are
appreciated. Also I saw some great ran and headlight control kits
from 'Pantera Electronics." Anyone have experience with these?
They look to be a similar solution to the headlight/fan control fix
Mike Drew published previously.
>>>Jon's solution is much more sophisticated and elegant. The article
I co-wrote detailed how to take the heavy electrical loads off the
headlight switch, and also how to provide a more 'pure' power and
ground path for the fans, but they still operate in a conventional
on-off fashion. Jon's device is a variable fan motor system, which
spins the fans at a variable speed depending on temperature
conditions. I don't find that to be necessary, but it is a complicated
and intricate solution to what is otherwise a very simple problem.
Like everything he makes, I believe it's exquisitely engineered and
constructed....
Mike
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