[DeTomaso] starter electrical system problem

thomas thomas at hax.se
Sun Sep 22 15:57:10 EDT 2013



> 22 sep 2013 kl. 21:01 skrev MikeLDrew at aol.com:
> 
> 
> In a message dated 9/22/13 11 29 57, pantdino at aol.com writes:
> 
> 
>> Ok, for my education:
>>  
>> Two things have to happen when you engage a starter motor:
>>  
>> 1) the starter motor gear has to be engaged in the teeth of the flywheel
>> 2) the starter motor has to turn
>>  
>> AFAIK the starter motor is not engaged all the time with the flywheel.
>> So what are you calling the thing that moves the starter motor gear out 
>> to engage the flywheel if its not a solenoid?
> 
>>>> That's the Bendix drive.   That's what I told you is shot in your
> starter.
> 
> The thing that moves the gear in and out is an inertial, NOT an electrical 
> device.   When the starter motor starts spinning, inertia propels the gear 
> out to engage the ring gear on the flywheel.   When the engine starts, the 
> flywheel basically ejects the starter gear back into the starter.

I don't think the stock 351c starter is of this type. It uses the stator coil to attract a "pole shoe" inside the bulge that moves the gear to engage the flywheel gear. And it also completes the circuit so that the starter starts spinning.

Check:
http://randysrepairshop.net/ford-1960s---1990s-operation.html

Thomas
> 
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bendix_drive
> 
> What is happening with your starter (I'm guessing from 400 miles away) is 
> that the Bendix drive has crapped out.   You turn the key, your perfect 
> solenoid does its job perfectly, sends power down to the starter, which starts 
> spinning merrily.   The Bendix drive does nothing because it's done broke, and 
> the gear just spins around and around, making the sound you're hearing.
> 
> While it's possible to have a starter rebuilt and repaired, when you 
> consider the low cost and higher starting torque of a modern aftermarket starter 
> (complete with built-in solenoid), and the lower weight, and the MUCH easier 
> servicing (you'll have to remove the header to get a stock starter out, I 
> would imagine, while the small ones are much easier to get in and out), it 
> makes no sense to do anything but replace it.
> 
> That is, assuming my long-distance diagnosis is correct.   It is incredibly 
> easy to determine it in person.   Have somebody turn the key while you have 
> your head near the starter (you can see it from above climbing into the 
> trunk).   If the solenoid closes and the starter makes noise, the problem is 
> not the solenoid.   If there is nothing coming from the starter and tortured 
> sounds from the firewall, then the problem is the solenoid.
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> Mike
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