[DeTomaso] starter electrical system problem

[bill gaino]

Jim, I had a hot start problem too. Then just clicking. I replaced my starter with a NAPA lifetime for 65 bucks. I had to take the Hall big bore header off too. But now it spins faster too. Before I did, I tested the starter by taking a straight wire from the POS on the battery and touching it on the starter lug. That will take the solidoid out of the test. I used a jumper cable, but it was bulky. A 10 gauge or heaver wire will work, in netutal, wheels off ground..  My test just arcked the wire and the starter never moved.. I determined it was bad. Bill 1362

-----Original Message-----
>From: Pantdino <pantdino at aol.com>
>Sent: Sep 21, 2013 3:15 PM
>To: detomaso at poca.com
>Subject: [DeTomaso] starter electrical system problem
>
>
>Hi, guys,
>
>Well, it's my turn to have a problem.
>
>Battery is about 6 mos old, sits disconnected with a battery maintainer attached between drives.
>shows 12.9 v across the terminals.
>
>When the key is turned to starter position a noise like a mechanical bee is heard from the passenger side firewall area and the starter motor does not engage.
>
>History is that I have used an ignition cutout switch to start the car when it is hot for years--  I get the engine spinning then flip the ignition switch.  If I try to start the car normally when hot the starter is not powerful enough to drive the engine past the first piston firing and it stops dead and I have to try again.
>
>My experience is that a clicking but non-closing starter relay is a sign of a weak battery, but this battery should be fine and the noise is different.
>
>Thank you,
>
>Jim
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