[DeTomaso] Engine Rebuild for 5332

[Daniel C Jones]

> forged pistons will grow more with heat than cast (or hypereutectics).

Be aware this only applies to some forged pistons. Aftermarket forged
pistons are generally a variant of two aluminum alloys: 2618 or 4032.
4032 is a high silicon aluminum alloy that has a lower thermal coefficient
of expansion than 2618.  The original TRW L2379F forged 351C pistons
were 2618 but the newer Speed Pro L2379F part number forged pistons
(the ones with the coated piston skirts) are 4032. Most of the off-the-shelf
aftermarket forged pistons are 4032 these days.  You can usually get
2618 in the race line from most piston manufacturers but the cost is
often higher.

> testing revealed that such boring would result in a dangerously thin
> cylinder wall elsewhere in the block, so the decision was made to
> sleeve that hole.

We have another one going together now that needed to be bored to 0.040"
in all cylinders.  Though we have several spare standard bore 351C blocks
available, sonic testing indicated that this particualr block would be
good at 0.040".  The only way to know for sure is to sonic test.

> I would suggest that most engine builders are not conscientious enough
> to do such testing, and just go hog wild with the boring bar,

Yup, especially if they are not familair with the thin wall Cleveland
blocks. Most shops in my area don't even have sonic testers.

> for just a bit more you can stretch to a stroker kit and gain a noticeable
> increase in power/torque.

X2.

Dan Jones

On Tue, Oct 15, 2013 at 3:28 PM,  <MikeLDrew at aol.com> wrote:
>
> In a message dated 10/15/13 11 48 8, steve at snclocks.com writes:
>
>
>> None the less, since I planned to replace pistons and rods, all will
>> work.  Just a little sad it is already 0.030 over. Since my goal is a driver
>> with a bullet proof engine will likely go with aluminum heads along with
>> everything else to allow a little bit higher compression ratio.  Oh the fun
>>
>
>>>>As long as the block is good, if you're determined to replace the
> pistons and rods anyway, for just a bit more you can stretch to a stroker kit and
> gain a noticeable increase in power/torque.
>
> Testing the block is important.   For my 408 stroker, I got a block from
> Dan that had a nick in one bore but was original bore.   The thought was that
> it could be bored .030 over and that nick would clean up--which was true.
> But prior to boring, testing revealed that such boring would result in a
> dangerously thin cylinder wall elsewhere in the block, so the decision was made
> to sleeve that hole.
>
> I would suggest that most engine builders are not conscientious enough to
> do such testing, and just go hog wild with the boring bar, so you could find
> that you are already at the limit.   In that case, you might wind up
> sleeving a cylinder or two and leaving the rest of the bores alone (or gently
> honing them) if they are otherwise in good shape.   Don't plan on boring it any
> larger though.
>
> Mike
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