[DeTomaso] Alternate dip-stick location

Fri Nov 1 13:26:07 EDT 2013

 I too didn't like the way the oil would drain all over the frame so I just made a deflector shield out of a tin can so that it is roughly shaped like an upside down "L".  I slip it in from the top so the top of the shield rests on the top of the frame rail and the side covers the frame rail.  The draining oil hits the deflector and flows into the catch pan.  After the oil is out I just lift out the deflector, wipe it down and store it for the next oil change.

Tom
5186

-----Original Message-----
From: Stephen Nelson <steve at snclocks.com>
To: 'Forest Goodhart' <forestg at att.net>; detomaso <detomaso at poca.com>
Sent: Fri, Nov 1, 2013 10:59 am
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Alternate dip-stick location

Yup – front sump.  And yes, the crossmember is back there.  It looked like I could double the size of the sump, thenangle the dipstick up from a side-mounted boss on the pan.  Routing below theheaders and likely secured below the rear corner head bolt.  But, I will begoing down to look at the mock-up in a couple of hours and have a better feelfor how it will work.

My bit thing is to get the pan up out of theway of the brake cables and re-locate the drain so it doesn’t piddle on the sideframe member.  Oh, and gain some oil capacity.

Stephen Nelson

SNClocks.com
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From: Forest Goodhart[mailto:forestg at att.net] 
Sent: Friday, November 01, 20138:20 AM
To: Stephen Nelson;detomaso at poca.com
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Alternatedip-stick location

Stephen, 

Doesn't yourpan have a front sump? I don't believe the rear cross-memberallows for a rear sump so your dipstick would not reach the sump where the oilis if installed at the rear. Maybe you could move it forward to the rear of thesump but then you are looking at possible interference with headers etc.

Let us knowhow it works out.

Forest

From: Stephen Nelson<steve at snclocks.com>
To: detomaso at poca.com 
Sent: Friday, November 1, 20137:20 AM
Subject: [DeTomaso] Alternatedip-stick location

I am planning toincorporate a dip-stick to the driver’s side rear of the new pan for5332.  If I had been thinking ahead I would have shot some pictures fromabove of the area between the camber bar and the back driver’s side corner ofthe motor.  I wasn’tthinking.  Could one of you kind souls shoot a couple of pictures and sendthem to me at steve at snclocks.com?  If youhappened to have a tape measure laid so it showed the dimension between the barand the back of the head, all the better!

And yes, I fully realizeI am likely wasting money and time having a pan made when such excellent onesare available.  But I want the bottom of the pan up ¾ inch to clear thebrake cables and I want the pan sump extended to give extra capacity.  Myengine builder has done this many times and his price is very competitive withthe aftermarket pans.

Speaking of engines – hasanyone on the forum tried the trick described on page 58 of Reid’s Ford 351Cleveland Engines book of drilling a 0.020” hole in the oil galley end plug asshown in the picture.  It directs a stream of hot oil to the timingset.  Seems like a good idea?

I finished said book lastnight and typed up my notes for things to keep in mind as I go through myengine.  If any of you would like a copy of my notes, send me a noteoffline – they are in Excel and only cover the things that were not obvious tome before I read the book.  If you are debating if the book is worthbuying this might give you an idea of what it offers – which includes lots andlots of great pictures of every detail discussed.

OK, another question –what is the preferred vibration dampener for a 351C?  I am targetingstreet operation and good low to midrangetorque in the rebuild.

Stephen Nelson

SNClocks.com

Click here to join one ofour mailing lists Contact Lists

Click here for our new Hammered Dulcimers galleries

Click here for my new blog onfinding happiness in retirement 

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