[DeTomaso] Engine stall under hard braking

[Will Kooiman]

If you are going to do it anyway, do it now.  That's my opinion, anyway.

By the way, I bought dominator fuel bowls for my Holley.  One advantage is
the site window is much better.  It has a large flat window that makes it
easy to see the fuel.  I could not see anything with those round Moroso
windows.  Before I switched to dominator bowls, I would run the engine,
and then open the plug and shake the car.  If a trickle of fuel came out,
it was about right.  When I was chasing stalling, I adjusted the fuel
level down as far as it would go, and it still stalled.

--
Will





On 5/22/13 9:00 AM, "eb0711 at kolumbus.fi" <eb0711 at kolumbus.fi> wrote:

>Just got a strip dominator from US with help from Mike Drew.  I'm
>beginning to think I'll shave that straight, put it in,  adjust the
>floats and give it a go. I planned to do this anyway at some point, but
>now I have the reason to do it soon. :)
>
>Will be interesting to see if this solves it by itself.
>
>Thanks,
>-Janne
>
>
>5/22/2013 3:08 PM, Will Kooiman kirjoitti:
>> I had the same thing years ago.
>>
>> I tested on an empty road.  I removed the air filter and hit the brakes.
>> Fuel comes out of the REAR BOOSTERS.  NOT the vents.  Vent whistles
>>won't
>> fix that, nor will a tube connecting the vent pipes.
>>
>> I tried everything on your list, but it did nothing.
>>
>> I finally leveled the carburetor, and then reset the float levels.
>>After
>> that, I could stand on the brakes without killing the engine.
>>
>> The intake is made for a front engine car, which tilts the engine down
>>in
>> the back to make it easier for the transmission to fit under the car.
>>The
>> carburetor is tilted in the front to level the carburetor.
>>
>> The Pantera mounts the engine level, but the carburetor is still tilted
>> down in the front.
>>
>> I leveled my carburetor by modifying a plastic carburetor spacer.  You
>>can
>> probably buy a tilted carburetor spacer, so you don't have to modify
>>your
>> own.
>>
>> You do not need to bend the carburetor studs.  The studs are smaller
>>than
>> the holes in the carburetor.
>>
>> My advice is to first level the carburetor, and then set the float
>>levels.
>>   And then, you need to readjust the idle screws, the timing and the
>>jets.
>>
>> And just to keep me honest, try hitting the brakes with the air filter
>> removed.  Just make sure you are safe - empty road, no traffic, etc.
>>
>> --
>> Will
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On 5/22/13 1:14 AM, "eb0711 at kolumbus.fi" <eb0711 at kolumbus.fi> wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks to all for inputs. Sounds like the plan goes like this:
>>>
>>> Check float levels
>>> test
>>> Add whistle to the rear bowl, if there's not one there
>>> test
>>> Connect the vent pipes
>>> test
>>>
>>> -Janne
>>>
>>> 5/22/2013 6:37 AM, Don Thomas kirjoitti:
>>>> If you are braking hard you should have a fuel baffle / whistle.
>>>> See: http://holley.com/26-89.aspv
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Tue, May 21, 2013 at 11:46 AM, eb0711 at kolumbus.fi
>>>> <mailto:eb0711 at kolumbus.fi> <eb0711 at kolumbus.fi
>>>> <mailto:eb0711 at kolumbus.fi>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>      I have a practically stock engine, but with holley vacuum
>>>>secondary
>>>>      carb. I've been doing couple of hard brakings now that I have
>>>> rebuilt
>>>>      the brakes, and love the brake performance. However I've
>>>>succeeded
>>>> to
>>>>      stall the engine a few times under braking.
>>>>
>>>>      Thinking it could be carb and fuel slosh related, but where to
>>>> begin?
>>>>
>>>>      Cheers,
>>>>      Janne
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