[DeTomaso] Stock brake calibers & other musings

Tue May 14 14:24:42 EDT 2013

Lines available for DIY here are normally a copper nickel alloy that
doesn't corrode much either.

Tomas

<-----Ursprungligt Meddelande----->
From: Larry - Ohio Time Corp [larry at ohiotimecorp.com]
Sent: 14/5/2013 6:37:23 PM
To: 'Will Kooiman'; MikeLDrew at aol.com; eb0711 at kolumbus.fi;
detomaso at poca.com
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Stock brake calibers & other musings

Hi Will,

The only brake lines that will not rust are stainless steel. Most
replacements have a very thin cote of Zink on them, but they to will
rust to
if nicked or scratched at all. 

Larry (rust I know) - Cleveland

-----Original Message-----
From: detomaso-bounces at poca.com [mailto:detomaso-bounces at poca.com] On
Behalf
Of Will Kooiman
Sent: Tuesday, May 14, 2013 12:11 PM
To: MikeLDrew at aol.com; eb0711 at kolumbus.fi; detomaso at poca.com
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Stock brake calibers & other musings

One other interesting note?

I was repairing a leaky brake line near the master cylinder one evening.
I pulled the hard line away from the master so I could attach a flaring
tool. I pulled a little too hard and the whole line snapped from under
the
car. I wasn't pulling like a gorilla. It certainly shouldn't have
snapped.
There was a lot of rust on the line where it snapped. I didn't think
brake
lines rusted. Maybe I'm remember it incorrectly. I spent the next 2
hours
under the car replacing the line from the master to the rear tee.

It could have just as easily broken while I was on the road. That would
have been fun.

But echoing your comments, my brakes were fantastic once they were
working
properly. And I didn't even rebuild the calipers.
--
Will

On 5/14/13 10:55 AM, "MikeLDrew at aol.com" <MikeLDrew at aol.com> wrote:

>
>In a message dated 5/14/13 0 37 4, eb0711 at kolumbus.fi writes:
>
>
>> Have been driving around with the rebuilt stock brakes with 
>> Porterfield pads. I appreciate this may not be greatest news, but 
>> I've got to admit I'm surprised how well it brakes. Not sure how good
>> thin, stock style, rotors are for track use, but I really like what I
>> got with small investment and elbow grease.
>> 
>>>>There is NOTHING wrong with stock Pantera brakes for driving on the
>street, even aggressively. This presumes that they are functioning
>properly
>and equipped with quality pads (the stock pads were much too hard and 
>don't
>have nearly enough friction). Some people unfairly criticize the
>brakes,
>when the problem lies with one or more malfunctioning components, to 
>include ancient (even original???) brake fluid, which can lead to one 
>or more
>stuck/frozen pistons in the calipers. Yes, a broken brake system
>doesn't work all
>that well--but then what broken *anything* works well?
>
>Having said that, for even moderate track driving, the solid rotors 
>become
>a problem. They simply aren't capable of shedding the heat, and the
>brakes 
>will eventually overheat and performance will fall off. That's why the
>early European Panteras had (as an option) ventilated rotors.
>
>Truthfully, I am rather surprised that these were not a standard
feature.
> 
>By 1970 engineers knew of the superiority of vented discs, and they
were
>commonplace on American cars. But keep in mind that disc brakes were
>still a
>relatively new technology (their first-ever automotive application had 
>only been 15 years prior, on the Jaguar D-type) and Italians were slow 
>to adopt
>new things. Discs were seen as a great improvement over drums (which
>they
>were) and while the Americans made the next great leap and used vented 
>discs as standard on virtually any/all disc-brake-equipped cars almost 
>from the start, most Euro cars of the day, at any price point, still 
>used solid rotors.
>
>Mike (who has replaced the stock solid discs on all four VW Sciroccos 
>with bolt-on vented discs from later-model VWs, with great success....)
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