[DeTomaso] Clutch/ZF experiences

[David in Durango]

Having just had the pleasure of a clutch/ZF experience last summer while freshening the Cleveland, I found:

1: I used a double shielded ball bearing for my pilot bearing.  NO chance of fubar - ing the input shaft.

2: The clutch that was in the car was the "can't find a fan anywhere" Centerforce - complete  with the $500ish aluminum flywheel.  Flywheel showed some hot spots - that ended up a Centerforce for replacement of the damaged part.  I called Dennis Quella about the whole project and he was kind enough to spend some time on the phone without a sale.  Dennis gave me the thickness dimension of a new disc so I could make a decision about replacing the disc.  I had already had Lloyd install a new 3.2 ring and pinion and was (NEEDLESSLY) concerned about putting a used clutch into the car.

3. While Lloyd (RBT Trans, we all know this, right?) was in the ZF everything was inspected and the 2nd gear synchro was renewed as well a saftey wiring the ring and pinion.  I was assured by the previous owner that the ring and pinion had been wired and surprisesurprise it wasn't . . . . but Lloyd said everything was tight.

4. My throwout bearing was a little gritty and the sleeve was screwed.  My fabricator/welder/machinist/mentor welded some material on the sleeve and then turned it down to the proper dimension - a NAPA bearing was pressed on  - so far perfect.

Dan Jones, Lloyd Butfoy and Dennis Quella were all a great help and I would recommend supporting them.

cheers,

"I always replace the crankshaft pilot bushing when R & R-ing a clutch. But 
even this simple thing is possible to do wrong. There are 3 different types 
of Oilite bushings sold today, and two of them have so much powdered iron in 
them, the 'bronze' bushings are magnetic! Take your magnet along- 
iron-adulterated pilot bushings will scar up the nose of a ZF input shaft, and its 
replacement cost will stop your heart. Lakewood sells a real bronze bushing. 
Removal of the old bushing is easy, too; run a 5/8" tap into the old bushing. 
When it bottoms in the crank, keep turning; it will jack the bushing right 
out with no mess nor drama.

You can also check out your throwout bearing by hand: turn it with fingers 
and feel if there's a gritty spot at any point. If so, it WILL fail. To be 
safe, replace that, too. A 'constant-contact' throwout bearing can be 
adjusted to zero freeplay for a little more clutch disengagement distance and will 
work well.

The ZF input shaft seal can be replaced if it shows signs of leakage, but 
this it rare. The seal is a std size, often cemented into the throwout 
bearing guide so it's a LOT of trouble to dig it out without breaking anything. If 
you mangle the seal too badly, its parts number may be illegible. The 
vendors carry this little seal, too.

For clutch parts, the safest way is to call your favorite vendor for the 
correct stuff. Local mechanics will not know the nuances present inside a 
Pantera bellhousing, and E-Bay & the offshore parts shops are worse. Finally, do 
not expect all-new parts to bolt in and be perfectly adjusted. You WILL 
have to fiddle with the bellcrank lever on the splined bellhousing cross-shaft, 
the pedal adjustment, and (especially if you did NOT get a constant-contact 
throwout bearing), the clutch freeplay. 
Good luck- J Deryke "