[DeTomaso] Pantera specifics for clutch R & R?

JDeRyke at aol.com JDeRyke at aol.com
Tue Jun 11 15:28:23 EDT 2013


In a message dated 6/11/13 10:33:00 AM, boyd411 at gmail.com writes:

> I am considering changing mine and I would like to hear suggestions on 
> the best choices for parts and if there are any other things I should do or 
> replace while I have the Trans axle out (like throw out bearing , clutch 
> forks etc.?
> Also are there any maintenance or preventative actions ( like seal
> replacements) that should be addressed on the ZF while I'm doing the job?
> 
I always replace the crankshaft pilot bushing when R & R-ing a clutch. But 
even this simple thing is possible to do wrong. There are 3 different types 
of Oilite bushings sold today, and two of them have so much powdered iron in 
them, the 'bronze' bushings are magnetic! Take your magnet along- 
iron-adulterated pilot bushings will scar up the nose of a ZF input shaft, and its 
replacement cost will stop your heart. Lakewood sells a real bronze bushing. 
Removal of the old bushing is easy, too; run a 5/8" tap into the old bushing. 
When it bottoms in the crank, keep turning; it will jack the bushing right 
out with no mess nor drama.

You can also check out your throwout bearing by hand: turn it with fingers 
and feel if there's a gritty spot at any point. If so, it WILL fail. To be 
safe, replace that, too. A 'constant-contact' throwout bearing can be 
adjusted to zero freeplay for a little more clutch disengagement distance and will 
work well.

The ZF input shaft seal can be replaced if it shows signs of leakage, but 
this it rare. The seal is a std size, often cemented into the throwout 
bearing guide so it's a LOT of trouble to dig it out without breaking anything. If 
you mangle the seal too badly, its parts number may be illegible. The 
vendors carry this little seal, too.

For clutch parts, the safest way is to call your favorite vendor for the 
correct stuff. Local mechanics will not know the nuances present inside a 
Pantera bellhousing, and E-Bay & the offshore parts shops are worse. Finally, do 
not expect all-new parts to bolt in and be perfectly adjusted. You WILL 
have to fiddle with the bellcrank lever on the splined bellhousing cross-shaft, 
the pedal adjustment, and (especially if you did NOT get a constant-contact 
throwout bearing), the clutch freeplay. 
Good luck- J Deryke 



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