[DeTomaso] Uprights

David Fisher fisher95020 at gmail.com
Sun Jul 14 00:42:09 EDT 2013


Will,

I recently did the same operation.

For the lower bushing that likes to seize (mine was)  I cut a small slot in
the shaft (but not all the way to end)  so grease could travel down the
length of the shaft and around the circumference.   I then tapped a grease
fitting in the center of the upright.   It seems to have worked well.

http://www.poca.com/index.php/gallery/?g2_itemId=36825
http://www.poca.com/index.php/gallery/?g2_itemId=36828
http://www.poca.com/index.php/gallery/?g2_itemId=36831


Also,  to Mikes point,  you probably want to gather some lengths of the
correct diameter pipe to press the billet drive shaft through the bearings,
being sure to support the inner bearing race.   My bearings were a very
snug fit, (on purpose) as the billet shafts were made to have a thou or two
interference fit to keep them from spinning in the bearings (I noticed one
of my cast shafts had been spinning in the inward bearing upon disassembly).


http://www.poca.com/index.php/gallery/?g2_itemId=36822

David


On Sat, Jul 13, 2013 at 6:42 PM, <MikeLDrew at aol.com> wrote:

>
> In a message dated 7/13/13 17 08 49, will.kooiman at gmail.com writes:
>
>
> > I have my rear uprights apart right now.
> >
> > What is the current wisdom on upgrades?
> >
> >>>When I was in your position 20 years ago, the current wisdom was to
> convert to tapered roller bearings, which cost something like $1500-2000.
> While that is a great upgrade, I wouldn't do it again, when there are much
> less
> expensive upgrade options available.
> >
> > >I have new stub axles (billet, not forged),
> >
> >>>Either one is great, and better than the stock ones.
>
> > >and I am converting to outside
> > mount Wilwoods.
> >
> > What about the long shaft at the bottom of the carrier?  Should I switch
> > to
> > the kit that puts zerks on the ends?  I'm not crazy about drilling holes
> > in
> > the upright to install zerks.  I'm sure it works, but for some reason it
> > turns me off.
> >
> >>>They no longer sell the one with the zerk in the ends.   Apparently it
> didn't work as well as they would have liked.   Since your uprights are
> going
> to be apart anyway, installing zerks is a simple thing to do.   It
> shouldn't turn you off.
> >
> > >What about the spacer between the bearings?  I heard that the original
> > spacer flattens over time, which causes the assembly to loosen.
> >
> >>>It actually rounds off a bit, but the real problem was that the stock
> setup used a pair of open bearings (not sealed), with tin shields to keep
> moisture out.   Not only was this not especially effective, but these
> shields
> can deform and that's another way for looseness to develop.   Install new
> sealed bearings and do away with the tin shields.
>
> > > Should I
> > upgrade to a billet spacer?
> >
> > >>>I don't think there's anything wrong with the material in the stock
> spacer.
>
> > >I know some people use the bearing that has a double row of balls.  I
> > have
> > been told that the double row of bearings is not necessary.  True?
> >
> >>>Not necessary perhaps, but almost assuredly better.   The double-row
> inner bearing spreads the load across a much larger surface area on the
> axle,
> which would presumably eliminate the standard wear problem which comes
> about
> because of the relatively narrow stock bearings.
>
> It's true that the full width of the wider bearing is not supported on the
> outside, by the hub carrier.   But so what?   If only 2/3 of the wider
> bearing is supported on the outside, it's still better than stock, and the
> full
> width is still acting upon the axle, which is where the problem lies.   I
> can
> see zero downside to this upgrade.   All you have to do is shorten the
> stock spacer by an amount commensurate with the increased width of the
> bearing.
>  While the position of the outside bearing is fixed, the inside bearing
> floats inside the casting and its location is determined by the spacer.
> So
> there is a lot of latitude available; the spacer can be wider or narrower
> and
> the inner bearing will then sit in a slightly different place.   You have
> to
> have sufficient thread engagement so that the axle nut can be tightened, so
> don't go too crazy, but don't get panicky if your spacer gets cut and is
> off by 1mm or something.
> >
> > >I have heavy duty half shafts, so I am not going to upgrade to CV
> joints.
> > Besides, I like u-joints more than CV joints.  I guess that's because CV
> > joints remind me of Hondas.
> >
> >>>HAHAHA!!!
> >
> > >I also have new Konis with Hyperco coils, and new ball joints.
> >
> > >>>You will love those shocks and springs!   New front ball joints too,
> or
> only the rear?
>
> > >Am I missing anything?  It isn't a terrible job to disassemble,
> > especially
> > now that I have my own press, but I'd like to feel confident I got
> > everything.
> >
> >>>Taking everything apart isn't as easy as it might seem.   There are some
> special tools you will want/need, most especially a nice sturdy piece of
> pipe to support the rotor around the entire 360 degrees when you're
> pressing
> on it.   I have witnessed more than one rotor getting shattered because it
> was only supported at 3 and 9 o'clock and the axle was tight in the
> bearings.
>  Press harder and something has to give. :<(
>
> Mike
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