[DeTomaso] Uprights
MikeLDrew at aol.com
MikeLDrew at aol.com
Sat Jul 13 21:42:23 EDT 2013
In a message dated 7/13/13 17 08 49, will.kooiman at gmail.com writes:
> I have my rear uprights apart right now.
>
> What is the current wisdom on upgrades?
>
>>>When I was in your position 20 years ago, the current wisdom was to
convert to tapered roller bearings, which cost something like $1500-2000.
While that is a great upgrade, I wouldn't do it again, when there are much less
expensive upgrade options available.
>
> >I have new stub axles (billet, not forged),
>
>>>Either one is great, and better than the stock ones.
> >and I am converting to outside
> mount Wilwoods.
>
> What about the long shaft at the bottom of the carrier? Should I switch
> to
> the kit that puts zerks on the ends? I'm not crazy about drilling holes
> in
> the upright to install zerks. I'm sure it works, but for some reason it
> turns me off.
>
>>>They no longer sell the one with the zerk in the ends. Apparently it
didn't work as well as they would have liked. Since your uprights are going
to be apart anyway, installing zerks is a simple thing to do. It
shouldn't turn you off.
>
> >What about the spacer between the bearings? I heard that the original
> spacer flattens over time, which causes the assembly to loosen.
>
>>>It actually rounds off a bit, but the real problem was that the stock
setup used a pair of open bearings (not sealed), with tin shields to keep
moisture out. Not only was this not especially effective, but these shields
can deform and that's another way for looseness to develop. Install new
sealed bearings and do away with the tin shields.
> > Should I
> upgrade to a billet spacer?
>
> >>>I don't think there's anything wrong with the material in the stock
spacer.
> >I know some people use the bearing that has a double row of balls. I
> have
> been told that the double row of bearings is not necessary. True?
>
>>>Not necessary perhaps, but almost assuredly better. The double-row
inner bearing spreads the load across a much larger surface area on the axle,
which would presumably eliminate the standard wear problem which comes about
because of the relatively narrow stock bearings.
It's true that the full width of the wider bearing is not supported on the
outside, by the hub carrier. But so what? If only 2/3 of the wider
bearing is supported on the outside, it's still better than stock, and the full
width is still acting upon the axle, which is where the problem lies. I can
see zero downside to this upgrade. All you have to do is shorten the
stock spacer by an amount commensurate with the increased width of the bearing.
While the position of the outside bearing is fixed, the inside bearing
floats inside the casting and its location is determined by the spacer. So
there is a lot of latitude available; the spacer can be wider or narrower and
the inner bearing will then sit in a slightly different place. You have to
have sufficient thread engagement so that the axle nut can be tightened, so
don't go too crazy, but don't get panicky if your spacer gets cut and is
off by 1mm or something.
>
> >I have heavy duty half shafts, so I am not going to upgrade to CV joints.
> Besides, I like u-joints more than CV joints. I guess that's because CV
> joints remind me of Hondas.
>
>>>HAHAHA!!!
>
> >I also have new Konis with Hyperco coils, and new ball joints.
>
> >>>You will love those shocks and springs! New front ball joints too, or
only the rear?
> >Am I missing anything? It isn't a terrible job to disassemble,
> especially
> now that I have my own press, but I'd like to feel confident I got
> everything.
>
>>>Taking everything apart isn't as easy as it might seem. There are some
special tools you will want/need, most especially a nice sturdy piece of
pipe to support the rotor around the entire 360 degrees when you're pressing
on it. I have witnessed more than one rotor getting shattered because it
was only supported at 3 and 9 o'clock and the axle was tight in the bearings.
Press harder and something has to give. :<(
Mike
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