[DeTomaso] Heat Insulation-Engine Bay

[John Taphorn]

Thanks Bob.  I appreciate you taking the time to type out the lessons 
you have learned.

I'll look into the double stainless route with insulation.  I have a ~6" 
section of pipe close to paint.  I am considering just wrapping that 
section of pipe.  As it is ceramic coated, I wouldn't think it would be 
the end of the world or at least as hurtful as if it were the entire 
header pipe that was wrapped.

I am probably running a bit richer.  I am hesitant to lean it for fear 
of compromising the the length of flames that shoot out the tailpipes 
when decelerating.  I love the backfiring and flame show.

Keep making us proud at the track.  Good luck with the entry.

JT
On 8/4/2013 11:18 PM, rcbsons1 at aol.com wrote:
> John,
> I have had a heat problem with my car for a number of
> years.. I though it may have been shinkage from
> the primer but no so.
> My car as you know has 180's... again a windsor
> so the layout is a little different from your cleveland
> no inner fender issues due to routing
> So the car had a little mishap and I took it
> down to Tommy to fix along with resolving the
> backside of the roof and front side of the deck lid
> He had several painters look at it and they all said
> it would happen again due to the heat... I told Tommy
> we don't see that with other guys running their cars
> He said most run them fat jetted and not as hard.. My
> car does run a little on the lean side but thats where the
> power comes on.. OK here comes the Email for Michael
> about jetting.. I run 98's in the secondaries and 94's in the
> primaries on a 830 Nacar Holley.. might be time to have
> a custom carb built for this like my Pontiac:)
> He said we need to put more sheilds than the little SS one
> that we orginally had on it.. So there is sandwhich material
> with ss on both sides and an insulation material between that is
> under the roof now and under the deck lid.. the deck lid one
> actually runs almost out to the front end... To be fair my car when
> he worked on the deck had about 14 coats of paint on it.. when
> we painted last time no stripping to bare metal as I wanted a
> cheapy and it is a race car.. so we think all the paint and some
> bondo up there helped the problem I had.. deck was stripped
> to bare metal and the flat deck needed hardly any bondo...
> Very straight and very clean again
> We did talk about wrapping the headers and Tommy
> stated the best way to rot your exhaust out.. not a good
> thing as 180's for windsors are no longer sold by the Vendors
> just ask my buddy Rich
> I would say double layer is best with sandwich material between
> SS on the inner fender with Jeffs material on the back
> and don't run the damn thing too lean but you better run
> it hard!
> Car looks great with front and rear decks redone,
> roof and side panels behind the door.. the rest of the
> car was good but not perfect.. again it is a race car
> but boy does it look great all fresh again
> It will be tough to get those first couple of rock chips
> thrown at it next time on the track
> And yes it will crack again if you push it hard even
> with the chassis braces,cage etc on it.. things just move
> around alot with the cheater slicks.. I mean Dot Road
> race tires.. Officer
> I've been wanting to run it in the Optima challenge
> but you need a sponser or invite.. been bugging
> the guy in charge and he finally sent me an email
> back asking where I am campaining it next.. might
> have to run the hillclimb at Virgina City but we will
> see what he says.. Scott Black may know these guy
> Scott any help??
> Bob Benson #3 Black Pantera