[DeTomaso] Re : [detomaso]What's going on in the parts business?

[richard bosch]

Boyd,or Hugh?

I had the CNC clutch master cylinder in my car for over ten years.It is very well made,however if you want to convert to the CNC you have to do a few modifications.

The mounting hole spacing is wider so you need to use a dremel or file to elongate the holes towards the body.With a Dremel i think it takes only 1 minute per hole,not a big deal.you need to change the fitting on the end of the copper clutch line to a female #4 AN and put a 90 degree 1/8 pipe to male #4 an fitting.Bend the copper line a little to line up with the new master location.The hardest change is the CNC master protrudes further into the cabin than the stock master so you will need to use a die to cut more threads on the pushrod and cut off the excess threaded portion.

Another option is to make an adapter plate between the master and the body the has the two different mounting dimensions and the thickness to make up for the protrusion into the cabin.

The CNC master also has a shorter stroke than the stock master so i highly recommend a long throw slave to make up the difference.

Another option is the Wilwood/Tilton/Girling master.It has a longer stroke than the CNC.The same mounting  and pushrod length modifications are needed as the CNC.The fittings are different yet again as the outlet is now moved to the rear and top of the master.SAAC restorations sells the master and fittings as a kit for this conversion as well.One big difference with the Wilwood master is the hole in the firewall has to been enlarged and i had to "massage" my brake booster to clear.I have an oversize booster versus stock.

After it has all been said in done since the good non chinese master is available from both Pantera East and Roland in Germany i would recommend doing the good stock master.If they stop making the good ones and only chinese copies are available i would recommend the Wilwood master over the CNC because of the longer  stroke.

Richard