[DeTomaso] Stalling on hard braking

[Boyd Casey]

Ken ,
The hose connecting the two vents has around a 1/2" section right in the
middle that has the top of the hose cut off so it is more then a few small
holes in the tube.The extended tubes are supposed to prevent fuel from
sloshing and causing a flooding  condition. The Half of the hose that I cut
away allows the vent to receive full exposure to the ambient air pressure.
The important thing to look out for when putting vent extensions on the
vents ( and not connecting the two vents together is avoiding having the
vent openings to close to the air cleaner lid ( which I assume is to
prevent the vent being closed off against the lid. They said you must have
at least 3/4" clearance between the end of the vent and the air cleaner
lid.Some people Don't connect the two vents but just add around two inches
of hose to each vent. The real official remedy is to install vent whistles
but this requires removing the float bowls and although I have the vent
whistles I don't yet have float bowl gaskets so I figured I would try this
first. ( the first thing to do is the check your float level. the floats
should be low enough so that gas should just dribble out of the sight hole
when the car is shaken by pushing down on the fenders ( my shocks  and
springs are so stiff that I can barley move my car) And unless you have an
electric fuel pump this must bbe done with the motor running
Boyd


On Fri, Aug 2, 2013 at 5:16 PM, Ken Green
<kenn_green at yahoo.com<javascript:_e({}, 'cvml',
'kenn_green at yahoo.com');>
> wrote:

> Just wondering if a hose between the vent tubes could mess up the fuel
> mixture under hard acceleration?  I assume the vents keep the air pressure
> in the float bowls at ambient air pressure.  If the pressure is not
> ambient, it may affect the fuel mixture?  If you connect them, are you defeating
> the purpose of the vents?
>
> I got a patent for the owner of West Tech Dyno for a ball check valve to
> prevent fuel from escaping if a race car flips.  Maybe that is better
> because it would keep fuel from escaping, but still let the vents do what
> they are intended to do?
>
> Ken
>
>   *From:* Mikael <mikael_hass at mail.tele.dk <javascript:_e({}, 'cvml',
> 'mikael_hass at mail.tele.dk');>>
> *To:* 'Boyd Casey' <boyd411 at gmail.com <javascript:_e({}, 'cvml',
> 'boyd411 at gmail.com');>>; detomaso at poca.com <javascript:_e({}, 'cvml',
> 'detomaso at poca.com');>
> *Sent:* Friday, August 2, 2013 1:02 PM
> *Subject:* Re: [DeTomaso] Stalling on hard braking
>
> Boyd, great to hear you actually read the Holley book and came with some
> conclusions many often forgot. Have you read my book? Well worth it I
> think... :-)
>
> I have the same stalling problem after installing Dennes Quella brakes. I
> tried the hose on vents thing, didn't work for me, it's the jets/venturis
> themselves that flows the fuel from the rear. If you do the hose thing,
> make
> sure the hole in the hose is as big as the two holes in the vents combined
> so you don't introduce a bottleneck.
>
> Mikael
>
> -----Oprindelig meddelelse-----
> Fra: Boyd Casey [mailto:boyd411 at gmail.com <javascript:_e({}, 'cvml',
> 'boyd411 at gmail.com');>]
> Sendt: 1. august 2013 21:12
> Til: detomaso at poca.com <javascript:_e({}, 'cvml', 'detomaso at poca.com');>
> Emne: [DeTomaso] Stalling on hard braking
>
> I had mentioned that since I installed my new Brembo Calipers ( the same
> ones used in the  996 model ) (2001 to 2005 911 Turbo) A perfect choice for
> the Pantera due to their similar weight and  weight distribution . Along
> with my dual CNC master cylinders, balance bar my and oversize  Coleman
> vented rotors with gas vents , my car stops so hard and fast that I risk
> having teeth fly out as a result of the negative g forces! Anyway ever
> since
> these brakes were installed I have had a problem with stalling under hard
> braking. I obtained and started reading the Holley 4150 double pumper
> manual
> in an effort to remedy this situation as well as improve my
> Carbperformance.
> I found out several interesting things. Apparently many people mistakenly
> buy a larger CFM carb in the mistaken belief that it will give them more
> gas
> and more power. The truth is a higher CFM carb will give more power ( to
> the
> correct engine ) ie: worked heads, High CI displacement, High compression
> pistons. radical cam , headers etc but a smaller CFM carbwill give much
> better throttle response and power off the line.
> Another
> interesting thing I read said that an engine with #%! CI displacement
> should
> have an air cleaner at least 14" in diameter and 4" high with a minimum of
> 3/4" clearance between the vents and the lid of the air cleaner.
> I was running a smaller air cleaner because I liked the way it looked so it
> was both to small in diameter and too narrow ( the vents were too close to
> the lid of the air cleaner. I reinstalled my dual plenum that uses two K&N
> style air filters that allows much greater cfm and has almost 4" clearance
> above the vents. The next thing ( although it should really be the first
> thing is to adjust the float levels so gas is just dribbling out of the
> sight holes. They also recommend vent whistles but since I didn't have a
> Holley rebuild kit or float gaskets I used a trick i found on the "Off
> Road"
> web sights. They recommend taking a piece of tubing and connecting the two
> vents. This prevents the gas in the float bowls from sloshing under hard
> braking and accelerating and causing a flooding situation. Since as i said
> I
> didn't have float bowl gaskets handy I couldn't install my new vent
> whistles
> so instead I took a round a 6" piece of gas line and attached it to the two
> vents and cut a small hole in the middle near the air cleaner mounting
> post.
> I also used some carb cleaner and gave everything the once over. So far it
> appears to have done the trick. I only tested it accelerating and braking
> up
> and down my block but so far it seems to be working.
> Boyd
>
>
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