[DeTomaso] Stock brake calibers & other musings

[dave londry]

" - Changing rotors it's important to have the rotor and hub mounting
surfaces very clean and make sure the rotor is perfectly seated against
the hub. Otherwise the rotor will wobble and grab the pads at some point
of rotation. Easy to be sloppy here. :)"

Amen brother!
When putting in the vented rotor upgrade I had to do the left-front twice.
I wired brushed the hat and did a careful job of pressing it back together and still had 0.050 of runout.
Second time it was with a wire wheel, until shiny, and had no discernible runout.
dave

On 30/04/2013 3:12 AM, eb0711 at kolumbus.fi wrote:
> I rebuilt my stock front brake calibers recently and took them fully
> apart while on that. I'm sure many know, but thought I'd share for the
> benefit of other newbies:
>
> - Calibers seem like a decently nice design with big and little pistons,
> with some oddities in fluid distribution by strange tubing arrangement.
> - Outer pistons are individually at a dead end, meaning the fluid will
> not change there, when you bleed them just for changing the fluid. Would
> really need to squeeze the outer pistons to the bottom to get most of
> the old fluid out from there.
> - Changing rotors it's important to have the rotor and hub mounting
> surfaces very clean and make sure the rotor is perfectly seated against
> the hub. Otherwise the rotor will wobble and grab the pads at some point
> of rotation. Easy to be sloppy here. :)
> - Only way to use thicker ventilated rotors with stock calibers would be
> to build a spacer to fit between caliber halves and use longer bolts. I
> wonder if someone already makes them?
> - Noticed also that the Porterfield pads have 1mm thicker (~20%) steel
> backing plates than stock pads. So it's not just the compound, but
> stiffness and (maybe?) heat handling improvement.
>
> -Janne
>
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