[DeTomaso] ZF surface refresh

[Dick Koch]

In 2004 I watched my wife use Rub 'n Buff to highlight a picture frame 
and decided to try it on my ZF when I had the ZF out of the car to get 
Lloyd to fix a problem with it. The one thing I would add to Dave's note 
is that it is easy to touch up any "dirty" spots once the ZF is back in 
the car.

For a matte finish (cast metal appearance) the Rub 'n Buff is the best, 
easiest and least costly cast metal refresh that is available. One tube 
goes a long way.

I have been using it for years on all kinds of cast metal parts, as well 
as a few other non metal parts that needed a unique look.

Additionally, there are other colors that you can use for other surfaces 
you may want to refresh.  Rub 'n Buff is made from imported carnauba 
waxes, fine metallic powders, and select pigments. The unique blend 
gives objects decorated with Rub 'n Buff® a finish that no paint can 
duplicate! Available in 16 colors.

You can also blend the colors to come up with your own unique colors.  
The following web site has a color chart from which to choose a color 
that matches the finish you want, as well as instructions on its use on 
all kinds of materials.

http://www.amaco.com/shop/product-437-rub-n-buff-metallic-finishes.html

Dick Koch - Atlanta


On 9/4/2012 10:02 AM, Dave wrote:
> The easiest (and cheapest) way to clean up the discolored ZF is get a
> tube of silver leaf Rub 'n Buff from a neighborhood arts and craft store like
> Michael's.  A 1/2 oz tube ($3.99) will do 2-3 transmissions. I apply mostly with a tooth brush.
>
> Seems to look great for about 3-4 years. Your driving habits could cause a different outcome.
>
> Of course, clean the case very well. I used stainless steel stem brushes in a couple of diameters. IF you can find it, Simple Green "Automotive" is great. It is NOT the regular Simple Green.
> Every now and then I see if I can find it, not in the last 3-4 years.
>
> I'm sure others on this list have tried it and found it to be one of the BEST
> bargains available. I originally found out about it on the Ferrari forum, about 7 years ago.
>
> IndyDave
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Will Kooiman [mailto:will.kooiman at gmail.com]
> Sent: Monday, September 03, 2012 8:38 PM
> To: Keith R. Verges; detomaso at realbig.com
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] ZF temperatures
>
> I agree.
>
> I haven't done any tests, and I would defer to Lloyd Butfoy, but I have a hard time believing paint or clear coat would cause the ZF to run hot.
>
> I like the idea of using WD40 to clean the case, but I also *love* the look of John Taphorn's painted ZF (silver argent).  I don't care for polished cases.
>
> BTW, if you need the case to breathe, wouldn't it also weep fluid through the pores?
>
>
>
> On 9/3/12 6:45 PM, "Keith R. Verges" <KVERGES at figdav.com> wrote:
>
>> I lurk and saw some information that I thought was incorrect about ZF
>> cases needing to "breathe" and other stuff along those lines.  My ZF
>> was bead blasted and clear coated and I vintage raced and drove it on
>> the street.  I had no problems of any kind with the transaxle and do
>> not think clear coating can cause any harm.  If you are running
>> sustained high speeds such that you see high transaxle temps, IMO the
>> proper fix is to add an external cooler.  To the extent that painting
>> or coating can increase temperatures, the marginal increase can't be a
>> very big deal.  I was a huge fain of the clear coating, as it helped
>> make the engine bay very clean.
>>
>> I'll eat my words if someone has actual logged lubricant data with and
>> without coating.
>>
>> Keith Verges
>> Figari & Davenport, L.L.P.
>> 901 Main St., Suite 3400
>> Dallas, TX 75202
>> (214) 939-2017
>> www.figdav.com
>>
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