[DeTomaso] Servo heater control

David Fisher fisher95020 at gmail.com
Fri Nov 16 03:07:49 EST 2012


Thanks all for the responses and advice.   I will probably start with the
easiest fix (rear anti roll bar)  and work my way up to the hardest.

Gary,  have you been able to drive your car yet with the new rack?    From
staring at the geometry I also come away with the opinion that shimming the
rack is only going to half solve the problem.   On the other hand,  I guess
it's idiosyncrasies like this that give old cars such character.

Asa Jay,   I did explore finding solutions from a modern car,  but
everything I found would be more work than the approach I took,  and in all
honesty I kinda wanted an excuse to buy a variable power supply ;-)

David
On Nov 15, 2012 5:56 PM, <gow2 at rc-tech.net> wrote:

> The root cause of the bump steer is the distance between the pivot points
> on the rack. Moving the rack makes driving better but it simply moves the
> bump steer curve where you spend more time in the apex of the curve in
> bump.
>
> When I changed over to power steering I modified the rack to get the pivot
> point at the right distance. I now have zero bump steer from full droop to
> full compression.
>
> I would really like to see someone come out with a modified rack which
> would solve the issue.
>
> Gary
>
>
>
>
>
>
> >
> > In a message dated 11/14/12 21 52 4, fisher95020 at gmail.com writes:
> >
> >
> >>
> >> - Have to do something about bump steer
> >>
> >>>>At some point in L-model production, Ford/De Tomaso figured out that
> >>>> the
> > original chassis design placed the steering rack in the wrong location,
> > and
> > their fix was to install 10mm spacers between the rack mount and the
> > chassis.   It didn't make it perfect, but it made it better.   Both Chuck
> > Melton
> > and I stock rack spacer kits (a pair of spacers, and four 10mm longer
> > bolts
> > with lockwashers).   Take a look under your car and see if you have them
> > already?   If not, it's worth a try (and you'll have to get the toe reset
> > afterwards.
> >
> >> >- Need to find the missing 200hp
> >>
> >>>>That's easy to find.   Just bring cash. :>)
> >
> >> >- Need to tweak out some understeer.
> >>
> >> >>>Your car is fitted with 17-inch wheels and the rear tires are huge,
> > which makes understeer worse.   I think you still have the stock rear
> > swaybar,
> > which aggravates the situation even further.
> >
> > The single best bang-for-the-buck improvement you can make to the
> > Pantera's
> > handling is to swap the stock 3/4" rear swaybar for the GTS bar, which
> > measures 7/8".   All it takes is a new bar, and four new bushings, and
> > you're
> > well on your way to neutrality.   Your tire-size delta might not make it
> > perfectly neutral, but it will keep things safe, for just a little bit
> > past
> > perfectly neutral, you're spinning backwards through the trees....
> >
> > Mike
> >
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