[DeTomaso] second update on clutch slave not compressing fully

Asa Jay Laughton asajay at asajay.com
Sat May 12 23:32:55 EDT 2012 

Yes, hard lines from the master to just under the engine, then it's that 
funky plastic tubing. I still don't understand that part.  I replaced 
mine with what I consider a bit more proper line from Pantera 
Performance Center.

Another thing to note.  The slave is really easy to disassemble. It 
would be easy enough to pull the pushrod, pull the boot, then gently 
apply pressure to push the piston out.  Inspect, clean and reassemble if 
no problems are found.

Asa Jay

Asa Jay Laughton, MSgt, USAFR, Retired
&  Shelley Marie
Spokane, WA
******************************
http://www.racingagainstautism.com
http://www.teampanteraracing.com
http://facebook.com/racingagainstautism


On 5/12/2012 8:27 PM, Pantdino wrote:
> Asa Jay,
>
> I change my fluid annually, so that is not the problem.
>
> I had a similar problem with the brakes of another car wherein the rubber brake hose at the wheel had swollen internally so there was almost no lumen inside. Fluid would move toward the caliper (sort of) but then not be able to move back.  But the Pantera just uses hard lines and the plastic piece, yes?  Anyway, I think the last experiment showed it's not an hydraulic problem.
>
> Jim
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Asa Jay Laughton<asajay at asajay.com>
> To: detomaso<detomaso at realbig.com>
> Sent: Sat, May 12, 2012 7:43 pm
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] second update on clutch slave not compressing fully
>
>
> Jim,
> Bear with it, there is something to be learned here.
> When I first got my Pantera, it had a slight pull to the left.  It
> sually got worse the longer I drove.  One day, it nearly locked up the
> eft front.  The wheel was so hot I couldn't touch it.
> I decided to do a brake job.  I sourced another set of calipers from
> omeone on this list.  I got the closest brake pads I could find at Napa
> nd carved them to fit.  But  here is the important part.
> The -reason- the brakes were riding on the right front is because what
> as in the brake lines was no longer FLUID, it was a mass of globulous
> lack goo.  It was old enough and contaminated enough that it would not
> elease the piston in the caliper.  Oh sure, it would apply the brakes
> hen I pressed the pedal, but it wouldn't release back to its resting
> osition once I was off.
> Your clutch situation sounds just like my old left front caliper.  I
> hink it's time you took the slave apart, blew out the lines between the
> aster and slave and started over.
> Asa Jay
> Asa Jay Laughton, MSgt, USAFR, Retired
>    Shelley Marie
> pokane, WA
> *****************************
> ttp://www.racingagainstautism.com
> ttp://www.teampanteraracing.com
> ttp://facebook.com/racingagainstautism
>
> n 5/12/2012 5:10 PM, Pantdino wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>   Yes, the part of the slave rod covered by the boot rotates, so I shortened the
> od enough to get the appropriate play. Clutch arm now moves easily-- not
> inding or stiff.  But actuating the clutch again produces the same situation--
> lay gone, clutch arm being held rearward by slave rod.  Tapping clutch arm
> orward w mallet moves it to recreate play, but it disappears again at the next
> lutch actuation.
>
>   So it is definitely the clutch hydraulic system that is not returning to rest
> osition.
>
>   I have never heard of a clutch master failing in such a way that the piston
> ails to return to rest position and instead keeps pressure in the system. Has
> nyone else?
>
>   A clutch slave is just a simple piston in a bore with one fluid connection,
> nd I don't see how it could fail in this way.  Also, the fact that the
> ituation occurs with the rod shortened means the slave piston is now in a
> ifferent spot and is still not moving, so unlikely to be a binding piston.
>
>   Jim
>
>   -----Original Message-----
>   From: Pantdino<pantdino at aol.com>
>   To: detomaso<detomaso at realbig.com>
>   Sent: Sat, May 12, 2012 2:14 pm
>   Subject: [DeTomaso] update on clutch slave not compressing fully
>
>
>
>     drove the car from my other garage to home. The car had been sitting for a
>   onth there, and the stop bolt WAS touching the bracket. But upon pressing the
>   lutch there was no free play.
>
>   fter the short drive home the car sat for an hour or so and I noted the bolt
>   as no longer touching the bracket. I used a piece of rope to remove the spring
>   stiff spring which takes 2 hands for me) and now even though the bolt was not
>   ouching the bracket there was free play-- I could easily move the clutch lever
>   bout 2-3 mm with my hand, as it was when I adjusted it before.
>
>   ut after actuating the clutch a few times the bolt is further from the bracket
>   han it was before the drive home and the clutch arm is like rock-- absolutely
>   tiff, can't move it with my hands at all.
>
>   y life is complicated by the fact that the clevis pin has been seized in the
>   ores of the clutch arm since I got the car in 1989. So I can't remove it to
> ee
>   ow the pin aligns with the bores. But right now the clutch arm is still under
>   ension from the hydraulics, so it would obviously not line up.
>   I
>     has been too long now since I installed the new clutch slave, so I can't
>   emember what the actuating rod looks like under the rubber boot and I can't
>   ompress my boot far enough to see. I'm thinking the rod has a female thread,
>   nto which the end with the hole screws. I that correct? So I need to rotate
> he
>   ortion of the rod hidden by the boot to decrease its length, correct?  Can I
>   ush the boot off the far end and turn the exposed metal with vise grips to do
>   his?
>
>   hanks,
>   Jim
>
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