[DeTomaso] second update on clutch slave not compressing fully

Pantdino pantdino at aol.com
Sat May 12 23:27:17 EDT 2012


Asa Jay,

I change my fluid annually, so that is not the problem.

I had a similar problem with the brakes of another car wherein the rubber brake hose at the wheel had swollen internally so there was almost no lumen inside. Fluid would move toward the caliper (sort of) but then not be able to move back.  But the Pantera just uses hard lines and the plastic piece, yes?  Anyway, I think the last experiment showed it's not an hydraulic problem.

Jim


-----Original Message-----
From: Asa Jay Laughton <asajay at asajay.com>
To: detomaso <detomaso at realbig.com>
Sent: Sat, May 12, 2012 7:43 pm
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] second update on clutch slave not compressing fully


Jim,
Bear with it, there is something to be learned here.
When I first got my Pantera, it had a slight pull to the left.  It 
sually got worse the longer I drove.  One day, it nearly locked up the 
eft front.  The wheel was so hot I couldn't touch it.
I decided to do a brake job.  I sourced another set of calipers from 
omeone on this list.  I got the closest brake pads I could find at Napa 
nd carved them to fit.  But  here is the important part.
The -reason- the brakes were riding on the right front is because what 
as in the brake lines was no longer FLUID, it was a mass of globulous 
lack goo.  It was old enough and contaminated enough that it would not 
elease the piston in the caliper.  Oh sure, it would apply the brakes 
hen I pressed the pedal, but it wouldn't release back to its resting 
osition once I was off.
Your clutch situation sounds just like my old left front caliper.  I 
hink it's time you took the slave apart, blew out the lines between the 
aster and slave and started over.
Asa Jay
Asa Jay Laughton, MSgt, USAFR, Retired
  Shelley Marie
pokane, WA
*****************************
ttp://www.racingagainstautism.com
ttp://www.teampanteraracing.com
ttp://facebook.com/racingagainstautism

n 5/12/2012 5:10 PM, Pantdino wrote:





 Yes, the part of the slave rod covered by the boot rotates, so I shortened the 
od enough to get the appropriate play. Clutch arm now moves easily-- not 
inding or stiff.  But actuating the clutch again produces the same situation--  
lay gone, clutch arm being held rearward by slave rod.  Tapping clutch arm 
orward w mallet moves it to recreate play, but it disappears again at the next 
lutch actuation.

 So it is definitely the clutch hydraulic system that is not returning to rest 
osition.

 I have never heard of a clutch master failing in such a way that the piston 
ails to return to rest position and instead keeps pressure in the system. Has 
nyone else?

 A clutch slave is just a simple piston in a bore with one fluid connection, 
nd I don't see how it could fail in this way.  Also, the fact that the 
ituation occurs with the rod shortened means the slave piston is now in a 
ifferent spot and is still not moving, so unlikely to be a binding piston.

 Jim

 -----Original Message-----
 From: Pantdino<pantdino at aol.com>
 To: detomaso<detomaso at realbig.com>
 Sent: Sat, May 12, 2012 2:14 pm
 Subject: [DeTomaso] update on clutch slave not compressing fully



   drove the car from my other garage to home. The car had been sitting for a
 onth there, and the stop bolt WAS touching the bracket. But upon pressing the
 lutch there was no free play.

 fter the short drive home the car sat for an hour or so and I noted the bolt
 as no longer touching the bracket. I used a piece of rope to remove the spring
 stiff spring which takes 2 hands for me) and now even though the bolt was not
 ouching the bracket there was free play-- I could easily move the clutch lever
 bout 2-3 mm with my hand, as it was when I adjusted it before.

 ut after actuating the clutch a few times the bolt is further from the bracket
 han it was before the drive home and the clutch arm is like rock-- absolutely
 tiff, can't move it with my hands at all.

 y life is complicated by the fact that the clevis pin has been seized in the
 ores of the clutch arm since I got the car in 1989. So I can't remove it to 
ee
 ow the pin aligns with the bores. But right now the clutch arm is still under
 ension from the hydraulics, so it would obviously not line up.
 I
   has been too long now since I installed the new clutch slave, so I can't
 emember what the actuating rod looks like under the rubber boot and I can't
 ompress my boot far enough to see. I'm thinking the rod has a female thread,
 nto which the end with the hole screws. I that correct? So I need to rotate 
he
 ortion of the rod hidden by the boot to decrease its length, correct?  Can I
 ush the boot off the far end and turn the exposed metal with vise grips to do
 his?

 hanks,
 Jim

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