[DeTomaso] clutch slave not compressing fully

[Mikael]

Maybe this can help?

FWIW, here’s a summary of how to adjust the clutch on the Pantera. Being
used to automatic transmissions for decades, it was a new and complicated
world that opened up to me when I bought a Pantera with a hydraulic clutch
and especially how to adjust it. Having bought all the literature I soon
found inconsistencies. I’ve read many sources including the Instruction
Manual, the TSB, PanteraPlace and others. And they were quite different. I
think now I finally understand how to do it, and if it can help others,
below is the short simple (?) method I’ve used 

First, the basics have to be right: A good master, slave, pipe and line. And
a proper Pantera clutch, not just a Mustang clutch. Some recommends a
long-throw slave, and that will make getting the right adjustment easier.
But it’ll also increase clutch pedal effort, something you don’t want
(except if you want to discourage the wife from driving ). And the fluid has
to be free of air.

1. Master: pedal should be adjusted so at rest it’s between 0-½” closer to
the driver than the brake pedal. Then test with a friend that with the pedal
fully pressed down, there should be at least ½” gap to the firewall/carpet 
2. Clutch axle arm: the almost vertical arm from the ZF to the slave rod
end. Imagine a straight line from the clutch axle on the ZF up to where the
clevis pin is. That line should be 90 degrees towards the slave. Ideally it
should be 90 degrees when the clutch pedal is half pressed down. Any other
angle will result in that the slave rod movement translates into less
movement of the clutch axle. Maybe you should move it a notch? Also check
that there’s free movement, when the clutch pedal is fully depressed, does
the arm or the bolt/nut perhaps rub on the ZF? And get a proper size clevis
pin, previous owner had just used a bolt that was 0.3mm less in diameter 
3. Slave return bolt: Temporarily remove the spring. Use your hands or a
tool to move the clutch axle arm rearwards, and feel for when it hits the
resistance of the clutch. Should be easy to feel. While holding the arm in
that position, turn the screw so that it almost touches the bracket, leaving
a 2mm gap. This will ensure that a. there’s no wear on the clutch release
bearing when the pedal is not pressed down, and b. that you get as much
movement of the clutch as possible. Reinstall the spring 
4. Slave rod: Some suggest that the rod is used to position the resting
position of the clutch axle arm and that the return bolt should be thrown
away. And some say this is not good, because the slave should not bottom
out. I think the best is to use the return bolt as described in 3., and then
adjust for almost maximum slave piston travel on the rod. Almost, so with no
bottoming out. With the system at rest, take out the clevis pin and by hand
press the slave rod all the way up in the slave. And then release 1mm. Do
the holes now align so the clevis can be put back in? If not, adjust the
length of the slave rod, so that they do 

With all this done, you should have a clutch that neither slips nor grinds
teeth. And of course you must press the clutch pedal all the way down every
time. Happy shifting!

Mikael


-----Oprindelig meddelelse-----
Fra: MikeLDrew at aol.com [mailto:MikeLDrew at aol.com] 
Sendt: 9. maj 2012 18:19
Til: pantdino at aol.com; detomaso at realbig.com
Emne: Re: [DeTomaso] clutch slave not compressing fully


In a message dated 5/8/12 18 30 52, pantdino at aol.com writes:


> The slave was adjusted as per the service updates book, and everything 
> has been fine until the slave stopped compressing fully.  This was 
> noted because the pedal has no free play. At the slave the external 
> return spring is in place but the clutch release lever on the bell 
> housing comes to rest too far rearward, so the10mm adjustment screw 
> does not touch the bracket. It can be pushed by hand so it touches it 
> but the next actuation of the clutch yields the same result, with the 
> slave not fully compressed.  It does not return to proper position 
> overnight or over weeks of time-- it stays like that.
> 

That tells me that your spring is wrong.   The spring is normally very 
heavy--almost too heavy to remove by hand; you have to use a pair of
needlenose 
pliers or vice-grips.   It should be under some tension at all times.   
Sounds like when the clutch is released, the spring is relaxed and rattling 
loose.   If it isn't you have the wrong spring....

Mike