[DeTomaso] water pump , thermostat question

[boyd casey]

I replaced the thermostat  and that didn't do the trick. In the past when I
had a bad water pump it usually made noise or leaked from the shaft or
both. This one does not seem to have a noticableb fault but the coolant is
not making it to the radiator. Should I just change it or could it be
something else?
Boyd

On Tuesday, June 19, 2012, wrote:

> In a message dated 6/19/12 11:43:00 AM, boyd411 at gmail.com<javascript:_e({}, 'cvml', 'boyd411 at gmail.com');>writes:
>
> Will a bad thermostat keep all the coolant trapped in the motor?
>
>
> Yes. For whatever reason. the most common failure mode for wax-motor
> thermostats is to fail- closed. I've had the same problem with 351-Cs,
> big-block Fords and 289 small blocks  as well as a couple of SBCs, in a
> whole variety of cars. Also for whatever reason, I get about 12 months out
> of ANY thermostat I install in our modified 351-C engine in a Pantera.
> Fortunately, with an aftermarket waterpump that does not use the 351-C
> bypass system, I can use virtually ANY thermostat.
> I have used 351-C, 351-W, 289 Ford and even a 350 Chevy, in a whole
> variety of temperature ratings; they all work in our 351-C if the bypass
> channel is blocked off in the water pump. Note also that in my testing, a
> 160, a 180 or a 192 F thermostat did NOT significantly change the fully
> warmed up engine temp; that seems to be a function of the coolant routing
> built into the engine block assembly. Even changing cylinder heads from OEM
> iron to aftermarket aluminum (SVO A-3s) didn't lower our fully warmed up
> cruising engine temp.  Using a larger capacity Fluidyne radiator *did*control the previously-uncontrolled temp climb at very high speeds, though.
> Good luck- J Deryke