[DeTomaso] ZF removal

David in Durango adin at frontier.net
Tue Jan 3 22:24:22 EST 2012


One nice thing about all the "Scuderia Non Originale" Panteras - no two are 
the same.

I was looking for "don't break the rear window" and "disconnect the shifter 
here" and "use this disconnect for the speedo cable" stuff - some I 
remembered and some were old aged. My current (newish) computer has holes in 
the continuity.

Updates as the adventure continues - thanks to all who volunteered some 
answers!

Peace, out.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bill Moore" <Bill at incendium.com>
To: "Mike Drew" <mikeldrew at aol.com>; <detomaso-bounces at realbig.com>; 
<adin at frontier.net>; <detomaso at realbig.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 03, 2012 7:22 PM
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] ZF removal


> Kirby, remember those famous words, "I've never seen that happen before". 
> Mike's description sounds way too simple and straight forward (even I get 
> it). What could go wrong.
>
> Regards:
> Bill Moore
> Incendium Supply Ltd
> Suite 416, 305-4625 Varsity Dr NW
> Calgary, Alberta
> T3A 0Z9
>
> 403 202 0055
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: MikeLDrew at aol.com
> Sender: detomaso-bounces at realbig.com
> Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2012 19:00:31
> To: <adin at frontier.net>; <detomaso at realbig.com>
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] ZF removal
>
>
> In a message dated 1/2/12 13 41 48, adin at frontier.net writes:
>
>
>> Hi Kids,
>>
>> Can't seem to find a ZF step-by-step - anyone have one?
>>
>> Or tips: speedo cable? Shifter linkage?
>>
>> thanks much!
>>
>
> Surprised you haven't received more advice on this one?
>
> It's not difficult to remove the ZF without removing the engine.   Here's
> the steps, roughly in order:
>
> 1)   You'll have to remove the A/C condensor, fan etc.   Don't break the
> lines open; just unbolt the condensor/fan/shroud assembly from the body, 
> then
> drape them over the right rear of the car (protect the paint with old
> blankets).
>
> 2) Remove the nuts from the bolts that hold the ears of the ZF from the
> mounts on the chassis, but leave the bolts in place until you're ready to 
> start
> removing stuff.
>
> 3)   You'll have to remove the clutch slave cylinder.   Leave the
> hydraulics hooked up; drift out the pin that connects the slave to the 
> lever on the
> gearbox, then unbolt the mounting bracket for the slave from the 
> bellhousing,
> and set it to the side.
>
> 4)   Unbolt the driveshafts.   We've beaten the driveshaft bolt thing to
> death. :>)
>
> 5)   Make a mark on your shift linkage and on the splined shaft that goes
> into the shifter box on the ZF, so you can align them properly when you
> reinstall.   Then remove the pinch bolt, and tap the shifter linkage off 
> the
> shaft and set it to the side.
>
> 6)   Remove the speedo cable from the angle drive.
>
> 7)   Check underneath and make SURE that you don't have anything zip-tied
> to anything else that might hang up.   It's a drag trying to lift your ZF 
> out
> when the parking brake cables are firmly attached to the underside, for
> instance!
>
> 8)   Use nylon motorcycle tie-downs; wrap one around the front of the
> gearbox case, another around the rear, and bring all four hooks together 
> roughly
> in the center, and connect your engine hoist, and put a bit of tension on
> it.
>
> 9)   Loosen but do not remove the two bolts that hold the engine to the
> engine mounts.   This will allow the engine to tilt forward, necessary for 
> safe
> removal.
>
> 10)   IMPORTANT!   Remove your distributor cap.   You can leave all the
> wires attached, and simply remove it and placed it atop the engine 
> somewhat to
> the rear of the distributor.   If you leave the cap installed, when you 
> tilt
> the engine and gearbox combo slightly, you can drive the distributor cap
> through the back window, which is never good.   If you have any doubts, 
> remove
> the distributor entirely (not normally necessary)
>
> 11)   Place a block of wood underneath the rear of the oil pan, and a 
> floor
> jack under that block of wood, and raise the jack enough to support the
> rear of the motor.
>
> 12)   Remove the bolts attaching the bellhousing to the engine, and the
> three small bolts that hold the splash shield to the front of the 
> bellhousing
> (under the car) and also remove the two bolts previously loosened, which
> secure the side of the gearbox to the chassis (and/or the single tail 
> mount, if
> you have an early car).
>
> 13)   Place towels over the mufflers to protect the paint, and then
> disconnect the rubber muffler hangars and move them out of the way (so the 
> mufflers
> can raise up as needed)
>
> 14)   Disconnect the backup light switch wires
>
> 15)   Now, everything should be ready to go.   Raise the gearbox a bit,
> then pump the jack to raise the back of the engine a bit.   Go back and 
> forth
> (or better yet, have two people working together), and soon the ears on 
> the
> ZF will be elevated enough that they will clear the tabs on the chassis.
>
> 16)   Carefully wiggle and pull the gearbox rearward.   You might have to
> tilt further to ensure the bottom rear of the gearbox clears the chassis.
> Pay attention to what is happening in the front of the engine--watch that
> back window!
>
> 17)   The gearbox should eventually pop free of the engine, and can now be
> withdrawn.
>
>
> Assembly is the reverse order of disassembly (famous last words!)
>
> Mike
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