[DeTomaso] ZF removal
David in Durango
adin at frontier.net
Tue Jan 3 22:24:22 EST 2012
One nice thing about all the "Scuderia Non Originale" Panteras - no two are
the same.
I was looking for "don't break the rear window" and "disconnect the shifter
here" and "use this disconnect for the speedo cable" stuff - some I
remembered and some were old aged. My current (newish) computer has holes in
the continuity.
Updates as the adventure continues - thanks to all who volunteered some
answers!
Peace, out.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Moore" <Bill at incendium.com>
To: "Mike Drew" <mikeldrew at aol.com>; <detomaso-bounces at realbig.com>;
<adin at frontier.net>; <detomaso at realbig.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 03, 2012 7:22 PM
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] ZF removal
> Kirby, remember those famous words, "I've never seen that happen before".
> Mike's description sounds way too simple and straight forward (even I get
> it). What could go wrong.
>
> Regards:
> Bill Moore
> Incendium Supply Ltd
> Suite 416, 305-4625 Varsity Dr NW
> Calgary, Alberta
> T3A 0Z9
>
> 403 202 0055
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: MikeLDrew at aol.com
> Sender: detomaso-bounces at realbig.com
> Date: Tue, 3 Jan 2012 19:00:31
> To: <adin at frontier.net>; <detomaso at realbig.com>
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] ZF removal
>
>
> In a message dated 1/2/12 13 41 48, adin at frontier.net writes:
>
>
>> Hi Kids,
>>
>> Can't seem to find a ZF step-by-step - anyone have one?
>>
>> Or tips: speedo cable? Shifter linkage?
>>
>> thanks much!
>>
>
> Surprised you haven't received more advice on this one?
>
> It's not difficult to remove the ZF without removing the engine. Here's
> the steps, roughly in order:
>
> 1) You'll have to remove the A/C condensor, fan etc. Don't break the
> lines open; just unbolt the condensor/fan/shroud assembly from the body,
> then
> drape them over the right rear of the car (protect the paint with old
> blankets).
>
> 2) Remove the nuts from the bolts that hold the ears of the ZF from the
> mounts on the chassis, but leave the bolts in place until you're ready to
> start
> removing stuff.
>
> 3) You'll have to remove the clutch slave cylinder. Leave the
> hydraulics hooked up; drift out the pin that connects the slave to the
> lever on the
> gearbox, then unbolt the mounting bracket for the slave from the
> bellhousing,
> and set it to the side.
>
> 4) Unbolt the driveshafts. We've beaten the driveshaft bolt thing to
> death. :>)
>
> 5) Make a mark on your shift linkage and on the splined shaft that goes
> into the shifter box on the ZF, so you can align them properly when you
> reinstall. Then remove the pinch bolt, and tap the shifter linkage off
> the
> shaft and set it to the side.
>
> 6) Remove the speedo cable from the angle drive.
>
> 7) Check underneath and make SURE that you don't have anything zip-tied
> to anything else that might hang up. It's a drag trying to lift your ZF
> out
> when the parking brake cables are firmly attached to the underside, for
> instance!
>
> 8) Use nylon motorcycle tie-downs; wrap one around the front of the
> gearbox case, another around the rear, and bring all four hooks together
> roughly
> in the center, and connect your engine hoist, and put a bit of tension on
> it.
>
> 9) Loosen but do not remove the two bolts that hold the engine to the
> engine mounts. This will allow the engine to tilt forward, necessary for
> safe
> removal.
>
> 10) IMPORTANT! Remove your distributor cap. You can leave all the
> wires attached, and simply remove it and placed it atop the engine
> somewhat to
> the rear of the distributor. If you leave the cap installed, when you
> tilt
> the engine and gearbox combo slightly, you can drive the distributor cap
> through the back window, which is never good. If you have any doubts,
> remove
> the distributor entirely (not normally necessary)
>
> 11) Place a block of wood underneath the rear of the oil pan, and a
> floor
> jack under that block of wood, and raise the jack enough to support the
> rear of the motor.
>
> 12) Remove the bolts attaching the bellhousing to the engine, and the
> three small bolts that hold the splash shield to the front of the
> bellhousing
> (under the car) and also remove the two bolts previously loosened, which
> secure the side of the gearbox to the chassis (and/or the single tail
> mount, if
> you have an early car).
>
> 13) Place towels over the mufflers to protect the paint, and then
> disconnect the rubber muffler hangars and move them out of the way (so the
> mufflers
> can raise up as needed)
>
> 14) Disconnect the backup light switch wires
>
> 15) Now, everything should be ready to go. Raise the gearbox a bit,
> then pump the jack to raise the back of the engine a bit. Go back and
> forth
> (or better yet, have two people working together), and soon the ears on
> the
> ZF will be elevated enough that they will clear the tabs on the chassis.
>
> 16) Carefully wiggle and pull the gearbox rearward. You might have to
> tilt further to ensure the bottom rear of the gearbox clears the chassis.
> Pay attention to what is happening in the front of the engine--watch that
> back window!
>
> 17) The gearbox should eventually pop free of the engine, and can now be
> withdrawn.
>
>
> Assembly is the reverse order of disassembly (famous last words!)
>
> Mike
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