[DeTomaso] ZF removal

Kirby Schrader kirby.schrader at gmail.com
Tue Jan 3 21:45:37 EST 2012 

Bill,

Ah, yes.... THOSE famous words.
I've heard them in the oilfield way too many times.

So let's do some critiquing here....

Mike is describing a late model car ZF removal. No options for those early car guys?
(ooopppssss.... he DOES mention it in step 12... my bad.)
But I have some Quella ZF supports as well, so there are differences with cars.

And what if you don't have a distributor?  :-)
Oh, nothing to worry about then....

Mufflers raise up? To where? Mine are almost against the car now!
There's no place for them to go.

And how about the fuel pressure regulator on the EFI? Gotta' watch that thing... it can break the rear window!
(ask me how I know...)

I don't like supporting the engine on the oil pan (especially an aluminum one!) unless I just damned well have to... I use a jack and a bar which sits on one of the ears of the block so I'm pushing against something solid, non-expensive and won't bend easily. We changed out Bill Vasser's clutch the last tech session at my house and it worked just peachy. 

It's way easier if you modify the ZF so it has bolts instead of studs. That way you can detach the late model ears from the ZF, but leave them attached to the car.
Makes for way less raising of the engine and stressing of all things concerned.

Winding up Mikey from Magnolia,
Kirby


On Jan 3, 2012, at 8:22 PM, Bill Moore wrote:

> Kirby, remember those famous words, "I've never seen that happen before". Mike's description sounds way too simple and straight forward (even I get it). What could go wrong. 
> 
> Regards:
> Bill Moore
> Incendium Supply Ltd
> Suite 416, 305-4625 Varsity Dr NW
> Calgary, Alberta
> T3A 0Z9
> 
> 403 202 0055
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From:	MikeLDrew at aol.com
> Sender:	detomaso-bounces at realbig.com
> Date:	Tue, 3 Jan 2012 19:00:31 
> To: <adin at frontier.net>; <detomaso at realbig.com>
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] ZF removal
> 
> 
> In a message dated 1/2/12 13 41 48, adin at frontier.net writes:
> 
> 
>> Hi Kids,
>> 
>> Can't seem to find a ZF step-by-step - anyone have one?
>> 
>> Or tips:  speedo cable?  Shifter linkage?
>> 
>> thanks much!
>> 
> 
> Surprised you haven't received more advice on this one?
> 
> It's not difficult to remove the ZF without removing the engine.   Here's 
> the steps, roughly in order:
> 
> 1)   You'll have to remove the A/C condensor, fan etc.   Don't break the 
> lines open; just unbolt the condensor/fan/shroud assembly from the body, then 
> drape them over the right rear of the car (protect the paint with old 
> blankets).
> 
> 2) Remove the nuts from the bolts that hold the ears of the ZF from the 
> mounts on the chassis, but leave the bolts in place until you're ready to start 
> removing stuff.
> 
> 3)   You'll have to remove the clutch slave cylinder.   Leave the 
> hydraulics hooked up; drift out the pin that connects the slave to the lever on the 
> gearbox, then unbolt the mounting bracket for the slave from the bellhousing, 
> and set it to the side.
> 
> 4)   Unbolt the driveshafts.   We've beaten the driveshaft bolt thing to 
> death. :>)
> 
> 5)   Make a mark on your shift linkage and on the splined shaft that goes 
> into the shifter box on the ZF, so you can align them properly when you 
> reinstall.   Then remove the pinch bolt, and tap the shifter linkage off the 
> shaft and set it to the side.
> 
> 6)   Remove the speedo cable from the angle drive.
> 
> 7)   Check underneath and make SURE that you don't have anything zip-tied 
> to anything else that might hang up.   It's a drag trying to lift your ZF out 
> when the parking brake cables are firmly attached to the underside, for 
> instance!
> 
> 8)   Use nylon motorcycle tie-downs; wrap one around the front of the 
> gearbox case, another around the rear, and bring all four hooks together roughly 
> in the center, and connect your engine hoist, and put a bit of tension on 
> it.
> 
> 9)   Loosen but do not remove the two bolts that hold the engine to the 
> engine mounts.   This will allow the engine to tilt forward, necessary for safe 
> removal.
> 
> 10)   IMPORTANT!   Remove your distributor cap.   You can leave all the 
> wires attached, and simply remove it and placed it atop the engine somewhat to 
> the rear of the distributor.   If you leave the cap installed, when you tilt 
> the engine and gearbox combo slightly, you can drive the distributor cap 
> through the back window, which is never good.   If you have any doubts, remove 
> the distributor entirely (not normally necessary)
> 
> 11)   Place a block of wood underneath the rear of the oil pan, and a floor 
> jack under that block of wood, and raise the jack enough to support the 
> rear of the motor.
> 
> 12)   Remove the bolts attaching the bellhousing to the engine, and the 
> three small bolts that hold the splash shield to the front of the bellhousing 
> (under the car) and also remove the two bolts previously loosened, which 
> secure the side of the gearbox to the chassis (and/or the single tail mount, if 
> you have an early car).
> 
> 13)   Place towels over the mufflers to protect the paint, and then 
> disconnect the rubber muffler hangars and move them out of the way (so the mufflers 
> can raise up as needed)
> 
> 14)   Disconnect the backup light switch wires
> 
> 15)   Now, everything should be ready to go.   Raise the gearbox a bit, 
> then pump the jack to raise the back of the engine a bit.   Go back and forth 
> (or better yet, have two people working together), and soon the ears on the 
> ZF will be elevated enough that they will clear the tabs on the chassis.
> 
> 16)   Carefully wiggle and pull the gearbox rearward.   You might have to 
> tilt further to ensure the bottom rear of the gearbox clears the chassis.   
> Pay attention to what is happening in the front of the engine--watch that 
> back window!
> 
> 17)   The gearbox should eventually pop free of the engine, and can now be 
> withdrawn.
> 
> 
> Assembly is the reverse order of disassembly (famous last words!)
> 
> Mike
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