[DeTomaso] ZF removal

Bill Moore Bill at incendium.com
Tue Jan 3 21:22:30 EST 2012


Kirby, remember those famous words, "I've never seen that happen before". Mike's description sounds way too simple and straight forward (even I get it). What could go wrong. 

Regards:
Bill Moore
Incendium Supply Ltd
Suite 416, 305-4625 Varsity Dr NW
Calgary, Alberta
T3A 0Z9

403 202 0055

-----Original Message-----
From:	MikeLDrew at aol.com
Sender:	detomaso-bounces at realbig.com
Date:	Tue, 3 Jan 2012 19:00:31 
To: <adin at frontier.net>; <detomaso at realbig.com>
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] ZF removal


In a message dated 1/2/12 13 41 48, adin at frontier.net writes:


> Hi Kids,
> 
> Can't seem to find a ZF step-by-step - anyone have one?
> 
> Or tips:  speedo cable?  Shifter linkage?
> 
> thanks much!
> 

Surprised you haven't received more advice on this one?

It's not difficult to remove the ZF without removing the engine.   Here's 
the steps, roughly in order:

1)   You'll have to remove the A/C condensor, fan etc.   Don't break the 
lines open; just unbolt the condensor/fan/shroud assembly from the body, then 
drape them over the right rear of the car (protect the paint with old 
blankets).

2) Remove the nuts from the bolts that hold the ears of the ZF from the 
mounts on the chassis, but leave the bolts in place until you're ready to start 
removing stuff.

3)   You'll have to remove the clutch slave cylinder.   Leave the 
hydraulics hooked up; drift out the pin that connects the slave to the lever on the 
gearbox, then unbolt the mounting bracket for the slave from the bellhousing, 
and set it to the side.

4)   Unbolt the driveshafts.   We've beaten the driveshaft bolt thing to 
death. :>)

5)   Make a mark on your shift linkage and on the splined shaft that goes 
into the shifter box on the ZF, so you can align them properly when you 
reinstall.   Then remove the pinch bolt, and tap the shifter linkage off the 
shaft and set it to the side.

6)   Remove the speedo cable from the angle drive.

7)   Check underneath and make SURE that you don't have anything zip-tied 
to anything else that might hang up.   It's a drag trying to lift your ZF out 
when the parking brake cables are firmly attached to the underside, for 
instance!

8)   Use nylon motorcycle tie-downs; wrap one around the front of the 
gearbox case, another around the rear, and bring all four hooks together roughly 
in the center, and connect your engine hoist, and put a bit of tension on 
it.

9)   Loosen but do not remove the two bolts that hold the engine to the 
engine mounts.   This will allow the engine to tilt forward, necessary for safe 
removal.

10)   IMPORTANT!   Remove your distributor cap.   You can leave all the 
wires attached, and simply remove it and placed it atop the engine somewhat to 
the rear of the distributor.   If you leave the cap installed, when you tilt 
the engine and gearbox combo slightly, you can drive the distributor cap 
through the back window, which is never good.   If you have any doubts, remove 
the distributor entirely (not normally necessary)

11)   Place a block of wood underneath the rear of the oil pan, and a floor 
jack under that block of wood, and raise the jack enough to support the 
rear of the motor.

12)   Remove the bolts attaching the bellhousing to the engine, and the 
three small bolts that hold the splash shield to the front of the bellhousing 
(under the car) and also remove the two bolts previously loosened, which 
secure the side of the gearbox to the chassis (and/or the single tail mount, if 
you have an early car).

13)   Place towels over the mufflers to protect the paint, and then 
disconnect the rubber muffler hangars and move them out of the way (so the mufflers 
can raise up as needed)

14)   Disconnect the backup light switch wires

15)   Now, everything should be ready to go.   Raise the gearbox a bit, 
then pump the jack to raise the back of the engine a bit.   Go back and forth 
(or better yet, have two people working together), and soon the ears on the 
ZF will be elevated enough that they will clear the tabs on the chassis.

16)   Carefully wiggle and pull the gearbox rearward.   You might have to 
tilt further to ensure the bottom rear of the gearbox clears the chassis.   
Pay attention to what is happening in the front of the engine--watch that 
back window!

17)   The gearbox should eventually pop free of the engine, and can now be 
withdrawn.


Assembly is the reverse order of disassembly (famous last words!)

Mike
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