[DeTomaso] More on driveshaft bolts...
Thomas Tornblom
thomas at hax.se
Tue Jan 3 01:34:41 EST 2012
And the bolts go in from the wheel end in the outer end of the shaft. On
the later cars, with the beefier uprights, the bolts need to go into the
hub before attaching the hub to the stub axle. The bolts can not be
removed/installed with the hub in place.
I had to open up the hub around the bolt head when I installed the CV
joints last winter. Impossible to tighten the bolts to the adapters with
the hex head Aircraft Spruce bolts. 12-pt ARP bolts would probably have
worked, but they are fully threaded and I did not want to have threads
through the flanges.
Thomas
2012-01-03 03:19, MikeLDrew at aol.com skrev:
> ...from the guy who knows but doesn't want the world to know that he
> knows....
>
> He wrote to me today:
>
> Mr. Mike.
> I said something just a little wrong. The ZF companion flange is not the
> one with the unfriendly surface. It is the WHEEL hub that has the interference
> to the bolt/nut hex tips. I'm bad.!! :-(((
>
> The ZF side is fine although you would still insert the bolts from the
> outside toward the inside. It WILL accept a standard lock washer (at least on
> mine) but the wheel yoke will not. Again - this all on MY car. Sorry to
> misinform - I got my sides mixed up. Dohhh.
>
> ====
>
> So, there you go.
>
> Mike
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--
Real life: Thomas Törnblom Email: thomas at hax.se
Snail mail: Banvallsvägen 14 Phone: +46 18 32 31 18
S - 754 40 Uppsala, Sweden Mobile: +46 76 209 8320
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