[DeTomaso] coolant bypass

Dave Londry davel at emspace.com
Fri Feb 3 12:46:01 EST 2012


All true, although pump pressure is small compared to the static 
pressure from the cap.
And the reason you put a restrictor in a race car is to raise the 
operating temperature.
It's just harder to tweak than tape.
dave


On 03/02/2012 8:30 AM, Will Kooiman wrote:
> I have never believed the statement that you have to slow down the coolant
> to allow it to stay in the radiator long enough to function properly.
>
> Especially since that means the water in the engine is slowed down just as
> much, so it picks up even more heat.
>
> You can't do one without the other.
>
> I DO believe that you slow down or recirculate coolant to keep the engine
> from getting too cold.  That's what a thermostat is for.
>
> I could also believe the coolant is slowed down to keep the head pressure
> from blowing the radiator or hoses.
>
> I normally don't respond to coolant posts anymore, because this has been way
> overdone.  As someone said earlier, if you do the well documented mods, you
> won't have a problem.
>
> I ran for years in Houston with no fans (unbeknown to me at the time).  I
> did not have a swirl tank.  I had a Manley pump with backing plate, normal
> 351C thermostat, stainless pipes, properly burped system, and a Fluidyne
> radiator.  I'm putting it back together the same way, except I have the
> Pantera Electronics fan controller.
>
> The engine was a 377C with hardblok to the top of the freeze plugs, A3
> heads, Webers, and a CompCams 294S solid lifter cam.
>
> The new engine is a 408C, and I'm adding 180's.
>
> The point being my car is not stock, and I had zero cooling issues, even
> without using a swirl tank.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: detomaso-bounces at realbig.com [mailto:detomaso-bounces at realbig.com] On
> Behalf Of David in Durango
> Sent: Friday, February 03, 2012 10:05 AM
> To: panteras
> Subject: [DeTomaso] coolant bypass
>
>
>
> "Just to add to that.
> You can take out the thermostat if you're under sustained loading,
>    which is why a lot of race cars are un-thermostatted.
> The cooling system is matched to the load and tweaked with duct tape.
> (or whatever magic you're allowed)"
>
> Racing cars usually use a restrictor in the cooling system - a washer with
> the appropriate sized hole. They also run under very narrow and controlled
> conditions.  As stated elsewhere: "Hot water needs to remain in the radiator
> for a certain time to be cooled, thus the restriction aspect of a thermostat
> or a Moroso Flow Ring,
> if the water just wet through as fast as it could, it wouldn't be cooled
> enough to make any real significant difference."
>
> My V8 Miata has been a work in progress for some time.  Since I bought the
> car and had no idea what was going on cooling wise. I fully instrumented the
> cooling system and learned:
> *    for most adult driving the oil will remain at the proper temperature.
> If you mess with this, you will need to know what the temps and driving
> conditions are - just adding a cooler without knowing your temps is not the
> smartest thing;
> *    all the air entering the front of the car needs to go through the
> radiator. This means that the hot air exiting the radiator needs a place to
> go!
> *    the car NEEDS a properly working t-stat.  Among other things, this will
> allow the coolant to be properly cooled in the radiator.  This will probably
> mean more than 100 degrees difference! (documented)  A "fail-safe" t-stat,
> in my experience, fails almost immediately (yes, it fails open) and will
> cause: slow warm up, the engine to run too hot or too cold depending on
> conditions, the oil to run too cold (and when the water is hot, eventually
> the oil gets too hot!).
>
> David in Durango
>
>
>
>
>
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