[DeTomaso] coolant bypass

[Will Kooiman]

I have never believed the statement that you have to slow down the coolant
to allow it to stay in the radiator long enough to function properly.

Especially since that means the water in the engine is slowed down just as
much, so it picks up even more heat.

You can't do one without the other.

I DO believe that you slow down or recirculate coolant to keep the engine
from getting too cold.  That's what a thermostat is for.

I could also believe the coolant is slowed down to keep the head pressure
from blowing the radiator or hoses.

I normally don't respond to coolant posts anymore, because this has been way
overdone.  As someone said earlier, if you do the well documented mods, you
won't have a problem.

I ran for years in Houston with no fans (unbeknown to me at the time).  I
did not have a swirl tank.  I had a Manley pump with backing plate, normal
351C thermostat, stainless pipes, properly burped system, and a Fluidyne
radiator.  I'm putting it back together the same way, except I have the
Pantera Electronics fan controller.

The engine was a 377C with hardblok to the top of the freeze plugs, A3
heads, Webers, and a CompCams 294S solid lifter cam.

The new engine is a 408C, and I'm adding 180's.

The point being my car is not stock, and I had zero cooling issues, even
without using a swirl tank.

-----Original Message-----
From: detomaso-bounces at realbig.com [mailto:detomaso-bounces at realbig.com] On
Behalf Of David in Durango
Sent: Friday, February 03, 2012 10:05 AM
To: panteras
Subject: [DeTomaso] coolant bypass



"Just to add to that.
You can take out the thermostat if you're under sustained loading,
  which is why a lot of race cars are un-thermostatted.
The cooling system is matched to the load and tweaked with duct tape.
(or whatever magic you're allowed)"

Racing cars usually use a restrictor in the cooling system - a washer with
the appropriate sized hole. They also run under very narrow and controlled
conditions.  As stated elsewhere: "Hot water needs to remain in the radiator
for a certain time to be cooled, thus the restriction aspect of a thermostat
or a Moroso Flow Ring, 
if the water just wet through as fast as it could, it wouldn't be cooled
enough to make any real significant difference."

My V8 Miata has been a work in progress for some time.  Since I bought the
car and had no idea what was going on cooling wise. I fully instrumented the
cooling system and learned:
*    for most adult driving the oil will remain at the proper temperature.
If you mess with this, you will need to know what the temps and driving
conditions are - just adding a cooler without knowing your temps is not the
smartest thing; 
*    all the air entering the front of the car needs to go through the
radiator. This means that the hot air exiting the radiator needs a place to
go!
*    the car NEEDS a properly working t-stat.  Among other things, this will
allow the coolant to be properly cooled in the radiator.  This will probably
mean more than 100 degrees difference! (documented)  A "fail-safe" t-stat,
in my experience, fails almost immediately (yes, it fails open) and will
cause: slow warm up, the engine to run too hot or too cold depending on
conditions, the oil to run too cold (and when the water is hot, eventually
the oil gets too hot!).

David in Durango





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