[DeTomaso] Fuel line fittings
JDeRyke at aol.com
JDeRyke at aol.com
Tue Aug 14 01:11:41 EDT 2012
In a message dated 8/13/12 7:37:49 PM, dennis617 at aol.com writes:
> But mine looks very different from yours. I have what appears to be a
> hard line into a male connection which I assume is a flare but I can't take
> it out to size it. When I tried to remove it I started losing all my gas
> and I don't have a plug for it. I'm looking to change all my fuel lines over
> to stainless steel braided Teflon but I can't tell what adapters to
> purchase to mate up with AN-6 fittings.
>
The stock fittings were 5/16" IFF (inverted female flair) fittings, but
nowadays fuel pumps for 351-Cs are getting scarce as to mfgrs, who arbitrarily
change things. Some use brass IFF fittings and some use hose barbs with
rubber hoses. Both work.
To work on your system safely, remove the top engine cover and disconnect
the fuel-out line from the tank. This will be a line connecting the sender to
the fuel pump ('73-up), or a metric banjo fitting icoming out of the top
of the tank with copper washers ('71-'72). Disconnecting the feed line
breaks the siphon that will be in place after first starting the engine. Then
your gas will stay in the tank and you can work with the lines, pump and the
rest out on the bench.
One other thing: most performance car fuel fires nowadays come directly
from loose fittings or improper parts that were recently worked on, or worked
on improperly. Be careful, use good quality hose clamps on all hoses and
(my recommendation) real AN fittings where possible for all fuel connections.
Cheap far-east "AN" fittings are risky. Only real racing pumps will have 37
degree in/out fittings. The others will have IFF fittings and hose barbs, or
45 degree industrial plumbing fittings.
Good luck- J Deryke
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