[DeTomaso] Carb question

Mikael mikael_hass at mail.tele.dk
Sun Aug 5 12:10:28 EDT 2012


No well-adjusted, no-vacuum leak engine drops 700 rpm when turning on the a/c...

Mikael

-----Oprindelig meddelelse-----
Fra: peter-kovacs at sbcglobal.net [mailto:peter-kovacs at sbcglobal.net] 
Sendt: 5. august 2012 18:00
Til: bill gaino; Mikael; shawkins777 at comcast.net; 'Christopher Kimball'
Cc: detomaso at realbig.com
Emne: Re: [DeTomaso] Carb question

That coupled with a big cam and light fly wheel could make a difference.
Sent on the Sprint  Now Network from my BlackBerry 

-----Original Message-----
From:	bill gaino <gaino at earthlink.net>
Sender:	detomaso-bounces at realbig.com
Date:	Sun, 5 Aug 2012 11:44:50 -0400 (GMT-04:00)
To: Mikael<mikael_hass at mail.tele.dk>; <shawkins777 at comcast.net>; 'Christopher Kimball'<chrisvkimball at msn.com>
Reply-To: bill gaino <gaino at earthlink.net>
Cc: <detomaso at realbig.com>
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Carb question

I with Mikael ... BUT maybe Chris is running the old York piston compressor?   My Sandeen, don't make my 408 flinch either. BUT the York is a much bigger load. Bill 1362

-----Original Message-----
>From: Mikael <mikael_hass at mail.tele.dk>
>Sent: Aug 5, 2012 8:09 AM
>To: shawkins777 at comcast.net, 'Christopher Kimball' 
><chrisvkimball at msn.com>
>Cc: detomaso at realbig.com
>Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Carb question
>
>OK, I'm late to this party, but here goes: Buy my book :-) Sorry, couldn't refuse...
>
>And now to the useful part of this mail:
>The problem you have seem to indicate a very weak/incorrect idle situation. Engines with 200+ HP should not bog down because of A/C use. You should either feel a very slight decrease in rpm or none at all. The solenoid solution is compensating for the problem instead of correcting it, I suggest to not spend time on that. Solenoids were introduced back when idle for environmental reasons had to be set too lean, for non-pollution controlled engines they're not needed.
>
>Back to your engine:
>1. Maybe I've missed it, is your 750 vacuum or double pumper? If it's 
>the latter, you'll need a good 4 corner idle, harder to get to, but a 
>lot better 2. What's your vacuum at idle? And is it steady (*)? If you don't have a vacuum gauge, buy one. Must be connected to manifold vacuum, not ported vacuum 3. After idling a while, how do your plugs look? Are all 8 the same? If not, probably a vacuum leak near the lean looking plugs. If yes, do they look lean or rich?
>
>If you answer 1-3, I'll try and help diagnose per mail? Up to you... 
>:-)
>
>(My engine is a 408 stroker with a wild cam, only 8inHg at vacuum. But 
>a nice 4 corner idle @ 1000 rpm. When A/C is in use, there's no 
>decrease in rpm that I can feel. So it can be done, if your engine is 
>working properly and adjusted correctly)
>
>(*):
>From my book:
>Diagnosing/troubleshooting
>As mentioned, a lot of different faults can be found with a vacuum gauge, because the behavior of the needle is different from one fault to another. Here are the seven most common scenarios (engine idling and warm):
> 
>1.	Steady needle, at 15-22 inHg: Engine in good condition. (An engine with long-duration camshaft will have a lower vacuum and a less steady needle, maybe 10-15 inHg with a few  jerks . That s still an engine in good condition)
>
>2.	Steady needle, lower than normal: Ignition timing too late or vacuum leak
>
>3.	Steady needle like in 1. but occasionally fluctuates at idle: Ignition miss or sticking valve 
>
>4.	Steady needle like in 1. but drops regularly: Valves need adjustment or burnt valve 
>
>5.	Floating needle, maybe in the range of 10-20 inHg: Carb out of adjustment or vacuum leakage 
>
>6.	Shaking needle, becomes worse as rpm increases: Ignition miss, blown head gasket 
>
>7.	Shaking needle, becomes steady as rpm increases: Worn valve guides
>
>--
>
>Hope this helps
>
>Mikael
>Tuning Made Easy, available at amazon.com
>
>-----Oprindelig meddelelse-----
>Fra: shawkins777 at comcast.net [mailto:shawkins777 at comcast.net]
>Sendt: 5. august 2012 11:48
>Til: Christopher Kimball
>Cc: detomaso at realbig.com
>Emne: Re: [DeTomaso] Carb question
>
>
>
>There are solenoids available that will raise the rpm when the compressor turns on. 
>
>
>
>Steve
>
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>
>
>From: "Christopher Kimball" <chrisvkimball at msn.com>
>To: detomaso at realbig.com
>Sent: Saturday, August 4, 2012 2:55:37 PM
>Subject: [DeTomaso] Carb question
>
>I have a 408 stroker with a Holley 750.  When I try to set the idle, I seem to have only two choices.  1) set the idle too fast (1800 rpms) so that when I turn on the air conditioner, the car won't die (it goes to about 1100 rpms with the a/c on), or 2) set the idle for 1100 without the a/c, but when I turn on the a/c it drops down to about 500 rpms and is at risk of dying when I let out the clutch. 
>
>I've tried adjusting the idle screw on the carb in minuscule increments, but no luck getting better results. 
>
>Suggestions? 
>
>Thanks,
>
>Chris
>3846
>                                                
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