[DeTomaso] Comp Cams roller rockers 1045

Will Kooiman will.kooiman at gmail.com
Mon Apr 9 12:13:10 EDT 2012


More likely the spring rates - which would be required with a really big
cam, so point taken.

I prefer tamer cams.  If you aren't running your engine 1/4 mile at a time,
you need to keep the lift down so you can keep the rates down, and then it
should live on the street.

-----Original Message-----
From: detomaso-bounces at realbig.com [mailto:detomaso-bounces at realbig.com] On
Behalf Of Mikael
Sent: Monday, April 09, 2012 11:05 AM
To: 'Brian Dudley'
Cc: detomaso at realbig.com
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Comp Cams roller rockers 1045

" I would have expected more mileage from rocker arms for a street engine.
", it's a 600HP naturally aspirated engine, with a cam profile from Hell,
maybe that's why.

Mikael


-----Oprindelig meddelelse-----
Fra: Brian Dudley [mailto:bd8134 at gmail.com] 
Sendt: 9. april 2012 17:56
Til: Mikael
Cc: <detomaso at realbig.com>
Emne: Re: [DeTomaso] Comp Cams roller rockers 1045

Hi Mikael
My experience is that you can't trust anyone. Different situation, I ordered
new ARP rocker studs from Jegs, shipped from ARP warehouse, half were
correct the others were too long which screwed into the head, had to cut
them down. 
As you say the geometry might be different. To check you can use an old
solid cam follower or 'locked up' hydraulic follower. Use a permanent marker
on the valve head and turn the engine a revolution or 2 after you set the
lash recommended for your cam. The rocker should wipe the marker off the
center of the valve. If it is not correct longer or shorter pushrods are
needed. 
I would have expected more mileage from rocker arms for a street engine. 

Brian

On Apr 9, 2012, at 10:23 AM, "Mikael" <mikael_hass at mail.tele.dk> wrote:

> As some may remember my MME 408 Cleveland dropped a valve last summer. 
> Had it fixed, some new valves, a new piston, some machine work, a few 
> new rockers, engine thoroughly cleaned, has been driving fine since. 
> But this winter I thought it was time to get a new set of rockers, 
> some had wear in strange places and MME recommended it after 5000 
> miles. And since I like to have a few spare parts I bought a full set 
> 1045-16 and two individual 1045-1.
> 
> Taking off the old ones, I looked more thoroughly at them than you 
> normally would, I was doing exactly what my mother told me never to 
> do, I was looking for trouble. Then I noticed something different on 
> three of them, and looking in my log, yes those were the three new 
> ones I put on last summer (all 1045-1s). But the new 1045-16 kit was 
> the same as the other 13 old rockers. So what was the difference? The 
> seat where the push rod rests, that seat on the 1045-16 kit and my 13 
> old rockers is flush with the rocker surface. But the three I replaced 
> last year and one (!) of the two I have bought as extras, the black 
> push rod seat is 1-1.2mm out of the rocker. In effect like having a longer
push rod on these.
> 
> I don't know how much this means, since it's a hydraulic lifter, so 
> the slack is just taken when adjusting. Maybe the geometry is slightly 
> different? Either way, product quality is not impressive, I must say. 
> At least I have 16 equal rockers now, can't be bad.
> 
> And a warning. Despite reading JDeRyke's article in POCA on 
> overtightening the locks, I managed to break one. Here's how. It 
> suddenly felt a little soft, but then hard again. Hhmmm, better check. 
> Took it off, looked ok except a scratch all the way round like a  thread,
probably just a scratch.
> Put it on again. Tightened. Hard. Hard. Hard. Soft. Hard. Strange, the 
> others had no soft spot. Was the stud turning perhaps? Shone some 
> light on the stud to check and tested again. And then the lock broke 
> exactly where the scratch had been. Learning: Any soft spot when 
> tightening means it's about to disintegrate, use another lock.
> 
> 
> Mikael
> 
> 
> 
> 
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