[DeTomaso] Comp Cams roller rockers 1045

[Will Kooiman]

BTW, I have also used masking tape to mark the tops of the valves.  I didn't
have a marker that gave the results I was looking for.

Regarding not trusting anyone...  I once ordered a very nice roller rocker
setup for a Ford FE (shaft) from a well known builder.  They arrived
assembled including the proper bolts.  I bolted them to my aluminum heads
and promptly popped out the heli-coil in the stand that supplies oil to the
shaft.  I didn't check the bolts.  That stand takes a longer bolt.

I was upset, but it was my fault.  I should have checked.  It might have
even worked okay with iron heads.

-----Original Message-----
From: detomaso-bounces at realbig.com [mailto:detomaso-bounces at realbig.com] On
Behalf Of Brian Dudley
Sent: Monday, April 09, 2012 10:56 AM
To: Mikael
Cc: <detomaso at realbig.com>
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Comp Cams roller rockers 1045

Hi Mikael
My experience is that you can't trust anyone. Different situation, I ordered
new ARP rocker studs from Jegs, shipped from ARP warehouse, half were
correct the others were too long which screwed into the head, had to cut
them down. 
As you say the geometry might be different. To check you can use an old
solid cam follower or 'locked up' hydraulic follower. Use a permanent marker
on the valve head and turn the engine a revolution or 2 after you set the
lash recommended for your cam. The rocker should wipe the marker off the
center of the valve. If it is not correct longer or shorter pushrods are
needed. 
I would have expected more mileage from rocker arms for a street engine. 

Brian

On Apr 9, 2012, at 10:23 AM, "Mikael" <mikael_hass at mail.tele.dk> wrote:

> As some may remember my MME 408 Cleveland dropped a valve last summer. Had
> it fixed, some new valves, a new piston, some machine work, a few new
> rockers, engine thoroughly cleaned, has been driving fine since. But this
> winter I thought it was time to get a new set of rockers, some had wear in
> strange places and MME recommended it after 5000 miles. And since I like
to
> have a few spare parts I bought a full set 1045-16 and two individual
> 1045-1.
> 
> Taking off the old ones, I looked more thoroughly at them than you
normally
> would, I was doing exactly what my mother told me never to do, I was
looking
> for trouble. Then I noticed something different on three of them, and
> looking in my log, yes those were the three new ones I put on last summer
> (all 1045-1s). But the new 1045-16 kit was the same as the other 13 old
> rockers. So what was the difference? The seat where the push rod rests,
that
> seat on the 1045-16 kit and my 13 old rockers is flush with the rocker
> surface. But the three I replaced last year and one (!) of the two I have
> bought as extras, the black push rod seat is 1-1.2mm out of the rocker. In
> effect like having a longer push rod on these. 
> 
> I don't know how much this means, since it's a hydraulic lifter, so the
> slack is just taken when adjusting. Maybe the geometry is slightly
> different? Either way, product quality is not impressive, I must say. At
> least I have 16 equal rockers now, can't be bad.
> 
> And a warning. Despite reading JDeRyke's article in POCA on overtightening
> the locks, I managed to break one. Here's how. It suddenly felt a little
> soft, but then hard again. Hhmmm, better check. Took it off, looked ok
> except a scratch all the way round like a  thread, probably just a
scratch.
> Put it on again. Tightened. Hard. Hard. Hard. Soft. Hard. Strange, the
> others had no soft spot. Was the stud turning perhaps? Shone some light on
> the stud to check and tested again. And then the lock broke exactly where
> the scratch had been. Learning: Any soft spot when tightening means it's
> about to disintegrate, use another lock.
> 
> 
> Mikael
> 
> 
> 
> 
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