[DeTomaso] (no subject)

[Rob Dumoulin]

I'm no expert, but it seems to me that the stress of attaching the
cross-member in place with the car jacked up would be far less than the
stress placed on that area during sport driving (in either case) if the
cross-member truly does its job. Wouldn't it be more appropriate to
consider which way the force gets applied to the car geometry and whether
or not that force benefits or hurts nominal driving in each case?

On Wed, Apr 4, 2012 at 12:16 PM, John Buckman <jb841 at cox.net> wrote:

> > What's the advantage to setting up the brace with rear spread by the
> > weight of the suspension, tires & wheels pulling down as opposed to
> installing
> > it with nothing attached at the pickup points, a more neutral state?
>
> With the brace loose or removed, the attach points will spread when the
> car is raised (at the rear crossmember).
> If the brace were to be installed with the car raised, then the brace will
> become "active "when the car is lowered,
> and it will remain active during virtually all conditions of driving
> (until there is air under the rear tires).  This puts
> a continuous (and possibly excessive) load on those thin sheet metal
> mounting tabs.  The brace should be
> installed with the car resting on the ground.
>
> The first time that the brace bolts were ever loosened on my car, the car
> was at rest on the ground (garage floor)
> and the mounts (tabs) did not move.  The factory undercoating was still
> covering the bolts, washers, and nuts.
> This is not to say that the factory "setting" was correct or incorrect,
> it's the way that my car originally was (and still is).  Just an FYI.
>
> I just makes sense (at least to me) that the brace should be "inactive"
> with the car at rest with its wheels on the
> ground.  The brace should not be used to "adjust" rear wheel camber.
>
> John
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-- 
Rob DuMoulin
904.476.8744
rob at dumoulins.net