[DeTomaso] (no subject)

Will Kooiman will.kooiman at gmail.com
Wed Apr 4 12:20:26 EDT 2012


I agree.  I was going to say pretty much the same thing.

I snug mine up, but that's it - with the wheels resting on the ground.  I
probably only put 35 ft/lbs on the big nut in the middle.  It is fine
threads, if I recall correctly, so I figure 35 is plenty.

-----Original Message-----
From: detomaso-bounces at realbig.com [mailto:detomaso-bounces at realbig.com] On
Behalf Of John Buckman
Sent: Wednesday, April 04, 2012 11:16 AM
To: detomaso at realbig.com
Subject: [DeTomaso] (no subject)

> What's the advantage to setting up the brace with rear spread by the 
> weight of the suspension, tires & wheels pulling down as opposed to
installing 
> it with nothing attached at the pickup points, a more neutral state?

With the brace loose or removed, the attach points will spread when the car
is raised (at the rear crossmember).
If the brace were to be installed with the car raised, then the brace will
become "active "when the car is lowered, 
and it will remain active during virtually all conditions of driving (until
there is air under the rear tires).  This puts 
a continuous (and possibly excessive) load on those thin sheet metal
mounting tabs.  The brace should be 
installed with the car resting on the ground.

The first time that the brace bolts were ever loosened on my car, the car
was at rest on the ground (garage floor) 
and the mounts (tabs) did not move.  The factory undercoating was still
covering the bolts, washers, and nuts.  
This is not to say that the factory "setting" was correct or incorrect, it's
the way that my car originally was (and still is).  Just an FYI.

I just makes sense (at least to me) that the brace should be "inactive" with
the car at rest with its wheels on the
ground.  The brace should not be used to "adjust" rear wheel camber.

John 
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