[DeTomaso] (no subject)

[Will Kooiman]

I think it is less important that it is set with the weight off the tires.
It is more important that it is done consistently.  Otherwise, it will throw
off rear caster settings.

And, of course, if you crank it down, you'll crack or bend things.

I prefer setting it with the weight on the tires, and then with a small
amount of tension - measured with the torque wrench in my elbow.

-----Original Message-----
From: detomaso-bounces at realbig.com [mailto:detomaso-bounces at realbig.com] On
Behalf Of Richard Greenblum
Sent: Wednesday, April 04, 2012 8:55 AM
To: MikeDrew
Cc: deTomaso List
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] (no subject)

Mike,

What's the advantage to setting up the brace with rear spread by the weight
of the suspension, tires & wheels pulling down as opposed to installing it
with nothing attached at the pickup points, a more neutral state?

RICHARD E. GREENBLUM
Attorney at Law
100 Congress Ave, Ste 210
Austin, TX 78701
(512) 322-3262
Fax (512) 322-3252

CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This communication and any accompanying documents
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copies of the original message.

From:  Kirby Schrader <kirby.schrader at gmail.com>
Date:  Tue, 3 Apr 2012 17:01:02 -0500
To:  MikeDrew <MikeLDrew at aol.com>
Cc:  deTomaso List <detomaso at realbig.com>
Subject:  Re: [DeTomaso] (no subject)

I would agree with Mike wholeheartedly on the cross braced setup being in
important modification.

As I've mentioned before, I bought the Hall chassis kit years ago.
Since I was driving the car daily, I had to do the installation a piece at
a time.

The single most effective piece in the whole kit was the lower rear brace
just above the transaxle.
The car's handling improved dramatically in my opinion.

Tying the large upper bar to the lower bar with the diagonal pieces helped
even more.

If you were on a budget and you had to pick the piece which is the biggest
bang for buck, there is no question. The upper rear brace set is the best.

FWIW,
Kirby


On Tue, Apr 3, 2012 at 15:54, <MikeLDrew at aol.com> wrote:

> 
>  In a message dated 4/3/12 12 07 16, tpoemer at gmail.com writes:
> 
> 
>>  > Is there a "correct" way to re-install the chassis brace above the
>>  > transaxle? Jack the rear of the car up with the wheels on and then
have
>>  > the
>>  > brace fit "back of slot to back of slot" in the tabs.....or on the
>>  > ground??
>>  > Thanks for your help.
>>  >
> 
>  Good question!
> 
>  If you have the stock one, it's a no-brainer, since there's no adjustment
>  possible.   Regardless of where you put it, it's going to go where it
wants
>  to go, and then stay there, doing not a whole lot (although it's
certainly
>  better than nothing, which would be a disaster).
> 
>  The adjustable ones give a bit more utility, but should never be used
>  actively.   That is, you should never crank and crank on the adjustment
in
>  an
>  effort to pry the car apart.   People do this sometimes!
> 
>  I say, jack the car up in the center rear (don't mangle the sheetmetal)
>  with the drivetrain, wheels etc. installed.   The suspension will droop
>  and the
>  inner wheelhouses will spread apart somewhat.   Install the brace and
>  tighten it until it's just snug, then insert the fastening bolts, make
>  them as
>  tight as you can (washers are a must here, otherwise you'll just fold the
>  sheetmetal tabs), then lower the car.
> 
>  Once you think about how the rear of the car is constructed, you'll see
>  that the upper, rear chassis brace kit, with diagonals between the upper
>  and
>  lower horizontal tubes of that assembly, is the only way to properly
brace
>  the
>  rear of the chassis.
> 
>  Mike (who has had one of those sitting in a box for a year, too lazy/busy
>  to install it, and making do with a square tube-stock adjustable bar
>  instead,
>  which is much better than stock but not nearly as good as a proper setup)
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