[DeTomaso] Heater control valve

[Larry Finch]

Barry,

NOW I see what you are trying to get across. ;-)   Senior moments = DOH.

It took awhile but what you are saying is the water pump delivers a set amount of push, and if the heater hoses are dead headed, then that amount of push needed (but not being used) to move coolant through the heater hoses must by default now be delivered to push coolant through the radiator hoses. Right?

 
SOOOO, if the 4-port allows coolant to be pushed through the valve's bypass circuit, the portion of the water pump push now being used in the 4-port bypass circuit is no longer being directed into the radiator hose system. I get it.

In that case, for those of us wanting an electric solution to the shut-off valve modification, perhaps one of these is 'more better'?

http://tinyurl.com/5-8-electric-valve

Only caution is the rating of this valve says maximum fluid temperature is 195 F.

Larry

 


 

 

-----Original Message-----
From: B. Seib <oldwheel at shaw.ca>
To: DetomasoList <detomaso at realbig.com>; Larry Finch <fresnofinches at aol.com>
Sent: Tue, Mar 22, 2011 4:33 pm
Subject: [DeTomaso] Heater control valve


Larry
I don't want to beat this to death but...
I disagree.

ANY device that allows coolant coming from the water pump to come back to
the engine block without having to go through the radiator reduces the
cooling capacity of the system. If the heater core is an effective radiator,
then it would be the only exception. I doubt that is ever the case and most
of us don't want to drive around with the heater on high to help cool the
engine.

Any bypass of the radiator results in less cooling.
It's not just the thermostat that you are bypassing, it's also the radiator!

Respectfully
Barry