[DeTomaso] engine bay lower X-member

STEVEN BLUM steveblum2 at msn.com
Mon Mar 21 14:34:20 EDT 2011


This is the first time I have heard of this upgrade to the Pantera, can someone fill me in on it? Who sells it? Is it for race cars only? Is it to replace rotten chassis?
 
 

Steve




 
> Date: Mon, 21 Mar 2011 11:10:31 -0700
> From: davel at emspace.com
> To: JDeRyke at aol.com
> CC: DeTomaso at realbig.com
> Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] engine bay lower X-member
> 
> Thanks Boys, that should do it.
> dave
> =================================================
> In a message dated 3/20/11 22 47 56, davel at emspace.com writes:
> > I have the 351C out and one if the Ipsco removable X-member replacements
> > sitting ready to go.
> > But just before I rip out the original, I'd like to read one or two of
> > the write-ups of those who already did it.
> > You know, in case there's a "whatever you do - don't xyz$"
> ==================================================
> On 3/20/2011 11:08 PM, MikeLDrew at aol.com wrote:
> It's pretty straightforward. The crossmember folds out and on each end, 
> has two flat surfaces spot-welded to the sides of the chassis rail, and 
> one on the top. I used a Sawzall to cut the crossmember out, leaving 
> the flat surfaces still attached to the chassis. Then I used an air 
> chisel, prybars, hammers, and profanity to remove the remaining pieces, 
> then an angle grinder to grind things smooth, then undercoating paint to 
> hide any trace of it ever having been there.
> 
> Mike
> ==================================================================
> On 3/21/2011 10:52 AM, JDeRyke at aol.com wrote:
> Chopping the oem crossmember out with the engine in place is a dirty, 
> miserable and difficult job, as the pan is only an inch or so away. Wear 
> old clothes and send the kids out of earshot of curses. With the engine 
> out, its much simpler. Two things: do NOT cut into the frame rails in 
> your efforts to get the old unit out and the rails clean of fragments. 
> And after its out, each car will be slightly different in the dimensions 
> between the rails. So don't expect a pre-fabricated assembly to slip up 
> in place without either shims or some jacking. Also, the removeable ones 
> are held in place by the lower front a-arm clevise nuts, so those will 
> need to be unfastened on each side, too.
> 
> Once its out, much the same needs to be done with the e-brake bellcrank 
> bracket just in front of the pan. The pan drops down, then moves forawrd 
> about 6" to clear the oil pump pickup inside. Once the bracket is cut 
> out, a short piece of angle-iron can be welded or bolted to the oem 
> piece, and holes drilled to screw it to the frame rail where it was 
> originally welded. Good luck- J DeRyke
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