[DeTomaso] Campagnolo Paint preparation

Tue Mar 15 10:35:12 EDT 2011

I found this online ( wiki )

Stages of annealing

There are three stages in the annealing process, with the first being the
recovery <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Recovery_(metallurgy)> phase, which
results in softening of the metal through removal of
crystal<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crystal>defects (the primary type
of which is the linear defect called a
dislocation) and the internal stresses which they cause. Recovery phase
covers all annealing phenomena that occur before the appearance of new
strain-free grains.[3]<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Annealing_(metallurgy)#cite_note-Verhoeven-2>The
second phase is
recrystallization<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Recrystallization_(metallurgy)>,
where new strain-free grains nucleate and grow to replace those deformed by
internal stresses.[3]<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Annealing_(metallurgy)#cite_note-Verhoeven-2>If
annealing is allowed to continue once recrystallization has been
completed, grain growth <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grain_growth> will
occur, in which the microstructure starts to coarsen and may cause the metal
to have less than satisfactory mechanical properties.[

So please educate me, why woiuld annealing them be a good thing?

Thanks,

Michael

On Tue, Mar 15, 2011 at 9:48 AM, michael frazier <red3644 at hotmail.com>wrote:

>
> I prefer to anneal them after all the blasting, sanding or scraping is
> done.  You're conditioning the metal and I just want all
> the "metal work" done before hand.  A bare metal wheel won't smoke or stink
> at all.
>
> Michael Frazier
> Gruppo Rompiculi Corsa
>
>
>
>
> > From: wayneajack at gmail.com
> > To: MikeLDrew at aol.com
> > Date: Wed, 16 Mar 2011 00:27:55 +1300
> > CC: detomaso at realbig.com; garth_rodericks at yahoo.com
> > Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] Campagnolo Paint preparation
>  >
> > Thanks for all input. Haha Mike...I was smug thinking I had cracked
> > this....but then the bubbles started popping up. I will have to take
> > the paint back on them all (with a careful blast) and start again with
> > the advice given.........Re Cooking them in oven....maybe wife wont
> > notice if I slip a wheel in with the Muffins each time (hmm that could
> > take 4 years........muffins dont happen much at present ;-).
> > On Mar 15, 2011, at 6:58 PM, MikeLDrew at aol.com wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > In a message dated 3/14/11 20 25 12, garth_rodericks at yahoo.com writes:
> > >
> > >
> > >> Overall, it was A LOT of work. Mike Drew dropped his wheels off at
> > >> a local body shop and had them resprayed for $50 each (IIRC). I
> > >> think I would go that route in the future given all the work it was
> > >> to strip and paint the wheels myself.
> > >
> > >
> > > HAH! It cost more than $150 each to have my wheels painted...and
> > > they didn't have to strip them. The rears were factory-painted (but
> > > the paint job was very poor and there was green primer showing
> > > through in places, I bought them new in 1989) and the front wheels
> > > had been powdercoated by Larry Stock, the wrong color--DOH!
> > >
> > > They just scuffed 'em and shot 'em with the chosen color (I actually
> > > color-matched the factory paint of my '89 wheels, which was
> > > different from the 1971-1974 color, with a bit of fine metallic
> > > flake in it) and then clearcoated them. The factory wheels were
> > > only painted, but not clearcoated (as far as I can tell). The
> > > clearcoating gives my wheels a slightly glossier appearance than I
> > > would like, but on the other hand, it makes them much easier to clean.
> > >
> > > Not that I ever clean them or anything....
> > >
> > > Mike (the one with the brake-dust-colored front wheels....)
> >
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-- 

Michael L. Shortt
Savannah, Georgia
www.michaelshortt.com
michael at michaelshortt.com
912-232-9390

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