[DeTomaso] A-Arms

gow2 at rc-tech.net gow2 at rc-tech.net
Thu Jan 27 14:31:59 EST 2011

So buy the studs separate? The threads I can take care of. What I got
sticks up a 1/2" too much:


> In a message dated 1/26/11 3:30:48 PM, gow2 at rc-tech.net writes:
>> I am sourcing parts for some tubular front a-arms. I got some Chrysler
>> Ball Joints but they raise the ball about 1/2" higher then the Pantera
>> Ball
>> joint. I am looking for screw in or bolt on ball joints.
> Howe Racing offers take-apart Chrysler-type ball joints in various
> lengths;
> the studs are offered separately. You need the correct 7 degree taper
> studs
> on whatever ball joints you use and Chrysler screw-in ball joints are the
> correct taper for Fords/Panteras. Never checked Mangustas. IMHO, its far
> easier to adjust the position of the threading in a custom a-arm
> recepticle than
> to change the taper from GM screw-ins (the only other choice). On our '72,
> I used Chrysler non-take-apart upper ball joints at all 6 positions, but
> shortened the studs to Pantera length. With slow, light cuts (I used a
> tool
> post grinder), Chrysler ball joint studs can be center-drilled, shortened
> &
> rethreaded on a lathe, as long as its never been lubed. Once lube is
> pumped in,
> the stud will shift around far too easily.
> See April '08 POCA News with photos: I cut the threads off Chrysler
> screw-in ball joint bodies and pressed them in place 'cause the available
> (very
> expensive!) tap will cut full depth threads that are rattly-loose on the
> half-height threads of the ball joint bodies, and the tap seemed to thin
> the stock
> upper rear a-arm recepticle too much for good strength. So far (4 yrs now)
> no problems. Good luck, Bill- J DeRyke

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